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Friday, November 10, 2017

11.9.17 Sideshore Playa Colorado Longshore Ride

I hadn't surfed or paddled in seven months.  I rented a JS Blak Box from one of the expats, who told me he thought this swell could get as big as double overhead.  The board I got was a 5'10"x19"x2.375, wide and thick for paddling power I would need if the surf got big.  What I somehow didn't notice until I was leaving his place was that it had five fins installed.

I walked out to the beach at the beach access near Mark and Dave's.  Panga Drops looked fun from what I could see through the glare, though there was a bit of a crowd on it.  I decided to venture down the beach a ways.

I'm still not sure what was going on with the wind.  What I felt was a side onshore but it appeared as though the waves were being combed by a light offshore.

I kept walking, hoping to hit a wave that breaks off the rivermouth (the last time I surfed here, the rivers hadn't broken through and it was closeout city with bad sandbars).  There was a big section that would fold over but oftentimes there was a really nice corner one could ride for twenty-plus yards.

I paddled out way past my targeted perch spot, thinking the current would deposit me there, and within thirty seconds I felt my atrophied paddling muscles shriek in protest.  After quite a few duckdives and trap pain I perched and was past my sought corner.  I paddled back towards it but it was useless with a current that strong.   

I got swept into, and then past a light crowd.  The surf was being affected by onshore wind but there were still some decent ones.  My first wave was a look at a head-high left.  Since my stoke threshold was set to zero, I felt a thrill descending the wave.  It raced off, but my attempt at getting my confidence level up was successful.

My next wave was a right and I stomped on the tail and surprised myself with how responsive the board was.  I snapped but was off-balance and ate it.

I then caught one last left which didn't do much of anything and went in.

I was out for a little over an hour.  My lower ribcage was red from the friction and as of the following morning my trapezoids are aching.  I'm hoping a little time with the foam roller will get rid of the pain so I can go in the afternoon today.  The tide is at its apex as of now and I'm on Lucia duty so it's a non-option to go now.

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