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Saturday, February 3, 2018

2.1.18 Unexpected PM Session at PC

My aforementioned neighbor came to my door while I was studying for my MLO test and said he was going to go check it.  He came back and said his contact at the beach reported chest-plus-high waves.  I grabbed my board and Chucho (Raquel and the girls were at the beach for a girls-only get-together) and we walked down.

The wind was pretty strong offshore, though not gusting and howling like it has been for the past couple of days.  I put in my go-plugs (ear plugs) and waded out.

I violated one of my surfing tenets on this day, for I fraternized with a sponger.  Brian revealed his true self and while I'm proud of him for the courage that took, I couldn't shake the piercing glares from other stand-up surfers.

I'm taking a little bit longer to get up on my board, definitely something I need to work on, though I did nail every drop.  They were all late due to the wind.

I blew one wave by trying to mini-pump upon take off.  The wind snagged my board and I couldn't descend again.

I had a nice, long left but I was off-balance for most of it.  I managed to hit it but was too off-kilter to have a shot.

I got teeth-chattering cold.  I know, I know, it's not cold here but the relative wind chill was nasty as the sun was going down.

Tuesday, January 16, 2018

1.16.18 Back to Playa Colorado with First Hint of Swell

I had to abort my first attempt at leaving the house with my board.  My eldest decided she does in fact like me and started crying, begging me not to go.  I solemnly put my board back.  I ate my Frosted Flakes and figured that was it.  My wife got up and then she told me to go.

By the time I got down there it was well past first light.  There was one guy checking it but no one in the water.  It looked pretty bleak out there with some almost-skimmable waves breaking a little too fast.  I headed towards Wyoming, the break north of Colorado.

A couple of guys in wetsuit tops paddled out into the nothingness at Colorado, in what I assume is a faith play.  A rideable set finally broke at Wyoming and I went out to my very own peak!

It was not to last, as one, then another, logger paddled out.  Sets were inconsistent, but chest-high and they had more than a drop!  I caught a racy left on which I bottom-turned and was too late to do much, but watched a foot from the barrel to see if I could have made it.  The answer is yes, for about two seconds before the section in front collapsed.

I caught another left and tried to get in the barrel but couldn't fit.

I tried my luck on my backhand.  I was really late on my first, made even later by the  gusting winds.  I descended and swung around, I poked my board up at it and was able to come around but I for whatever reason aborted even though it felt as though I'd made it with my noise pointed in the right direction.

A second right and I tried really hard to pump, I got one in and on my second I was hung up on the blazing lip.  I was catapulted face first into the trough and was really lucky not to have hit bottom considering once I stood up I was in hip-deep water.

My final right: redemption!  I pumped once and hit it as the wave sped off.

I caught a final closeout in.

Sunday, January 14, 2018

1.14.18 Forgettable Pangas Slumpbuster

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I had to really convince myself to surf this afternoon.  I walked the long way to Panga Drops and walked out to the sand, then back towards the break.  A place I'd never seen break before looked really good considering the lack of swell in the water.  I checked that for fifteen minutes and no other waves like that one magic set came.  The absolutely howling offshore winds were hammering me and coating my lower body in sand.

One of my neighbors is a photographer for NSR, a company that has a surf shop/vacation rentals/real estate business, among other things.  I talked to him for a while as he shot pics for the surf report.  He said it looked pretty good all things considered.  We watched the set of the day not quite detonate and I figured that was as amped as I would get, so I should harness it and get out there.

The vast majority of waves were strictly drops.  There was a sweeper out there who was having trouble catching waves, although there was a logger who was snagging quite a few.

While talking to the photog, I compared this spot to monogamy.  You're sitting on your peak and you will see other, pretty waves break and you will be tempted.  But you know as soon as you paddle over to your new crush you will regret it as you will miss your old one.

As a result of this reinforcing conversation,  I sat in the same spot.  The stakes were a little higher today, for if you missed a wave you paddled for, you were punished by myriad needles in the form of salt water projectile launched by the offshores.

I will describe all the waves worth the effort in the below area.

Friday, January 5, 2018

1.4.18 WAY Bigger than I Expected at Inside Pangas

It was pretty warm this afternoon and the swell was tiny and only going to get smaller.  I figured I should go paddle around if only to cool off.

I walked to the spot and was surprised to see it sporting a semblance of rideability.  The tide was coming up, almost to its apex, so it was the shorebreak show.

I paddled out and was shocked when I caught my first wave, as it was nearly head-high.  I caught another, then the pack enveloped me.  I paddled south to emptier pastures, to a peak which had looked rideable from shore and no one on it.

I sat there for ten minutes and then was shuttled back to my original spot by the current.  I caught one more wave, another too-quick virtual closeout and was again surprised at the power.  Another thing that struck me was the rushing foamy water made it feel as though I was moving in slow motion; it was really freaky.

I paddled, then perched once more and while looking towards shore I saw something I hadn't seen at the beach since 2002...

A woman's top third had the same color as her middle third.  Could it be? Could it be I had snapped my tittyless-at-the-beach streak?  I strained to confirm my hypothesis but couldn't make out nipples, let alone areoli.

The shortest ten seconds of my life and then that's when it happened, she put a black bikini top over them. YES! It HAD happened after all.

I spent the rest of my time in the water changing the lyrics of popular songs to strictly 'titties'.  My favorite was the synth part of the Ghostbusters theme song.

I caught another wave and went in.  As if to put the cherry on top of the titty sundae, a local in a golf cart offered me a ride back to my condo building!

Saturday, December 30, 2017

12.30.17 Beat-The-Heat Panga Sesh

I wasn't expecting much today.  Playa Colorado is on life support and it was evident this morning when I counted about two dozen heads picking apart the scraps, like buzzards picking at nearly-bare bones.

I managed to paddle out through a secret (to me) rock patch.  On my wade out I got one close call when I semi-jumped and was surprised by a shallow rock.  The ball of my foot barely cleared out and I precariously balanced on it on one foot as a wave came.  I was transported  to my struggles of years-past at Punta Roca, but turning my sights seaward snapped me immediately out of that whimsy.

My first wave was my best wave.  A too-fat right started breaking at the top, I let it hit me and by the time I stood up I was hanging on the ledge.  The offshore picked up and I got blasted in the face, free-falling maybe two feet into oblivion.  I came up amped at the difficulty level despite the small size.

A couple of forgettable, borderline unsurfable waves later and I went in.  If I was out for fifteen minutes I'd be surprised.

Thursday, December 28, 2017

12.28.17 Quick Strike on Onshore Colorado

I lost another argument to walk to the beach instead of drive so we loaded up Opie and had a little bit of beach time.  I'd applied sunscreen and had brought my board so I was committed to surf.

It looked TERRIBLE. At first flat, then onshore and closed out.  There was one other guy out.

I paddled out and caught three or four closeouts.  I couldn't even get a pump in.

I decided to wade up to the north and try my luck there.  I got a left swooped under and did a late turn and PULLED IT!!!!!!

I went in after about twenty minutes out thar.

Tuesday, December 26, 2017

12.26.17 Racy Playa Colorado

There's a good kind of racy and a bad kind of racy when it comes to waves.  The good kind is when the waves force you to stomp down and surf as efficiently as possible, swing it around the section with tons of speed and THWACK! over and over again.

The bad kind is when you can't ever hope to catch up to the wave.  This is when only Mick Fanning on a WaveJet might be able to make it around some sections.

Today was the latter.

I sat on the sand in front of the beach club for about a half-hour because it looked bad when I first walked out.  It was onshore/sideshore but I saw there were storm clouds approaching.  In El Salvador, this almost always means offshore winds and seeing as to how that's the prevailing wind pattern here, I figured it was almost a certainty.

Sure enough, the wind swung around and I was soon being rained on.  The tide was still rising and a bit too low. I waited a bit longer and had decided to paddle out right in front, where there was no one.  Then three Brazilians paddled out and I figured I'd get snaked so I averted course for northern peaks.

The water is cold, but still not San Diego in the summer cold.  The first duckdive felt especially refreshing.

A squall came down on us.  It was hitting pretty hard, making one have to squint to see well.  A rainbow appeared, ending on the pristine beach south of where I sat.  The rain went away and I got my wave count up pretty fast.

I made no sections.  I saw one of the Brazilians luck into a corner where he was able to get two turns in on his slower wave.  I saw a logger get a nice ride, but every other ride was an impossible race against the ocean.

After I caught an ill-advised "right", I got caught in a cleanup set, but made it out again.  Even on close to head-high and low-ish tide on these I haven't gotten a really good clobbering yet.

I went in after the crowd count continued to rise and the waves were still doing their thing.  The scenery was excellent and it felt good to be out there but these waves are too damn fast!