I a l m o s t bailed on this session. But a couple of sets came and, while they were barely shoulder-high, they were enough to make me brave the rocks.
There were four people out, including a girl who I originally thought was Argentinean based on her Spanish. As the session wore on it seemed more like she spoke English as a first language. I believe this is the first time I've surfed this break with a female.
My first wave was my best wave. I lucked into a good spot, wound up and hit the section pretty hard. Upon descending, the next section threatened to fold over me and I grabbed my rail and went under it to safety.
It took a good hour for me to get my next wave. The high tide was strangling the waves. The ones that managed to break at an acceptable distance from the dry rocks tended to section off hard, and if one showed up which didn't, you had to be in the right spot.
I happened to paddle out past the pack a bit, risking a section dashing my dreams and body against the rocks of despair, and a wave happened to be arriving to meet me. I heard one of the boys groan at my fortune as I whirled around for it.
I hit it well, but too high and got stuck up at the top. Had the tide been lower I might have made it back down. I flamingo-ed out with all of my weight on my front foot and held my balance to the point of fading.
Then the three shitlord locals came by and were not letting anyone have a go at anything. Yeah, I could've paddled past them and eaten wave foam on all of the sections-off but I decided to go in after twenty more minutes of waiting for a wave in.
There were four people out, including a girl who I originally thought was Argentinean based on her Spanish. As the session wore on it seemed more like she spoke English as a first language. I believe this is the first time I've surfed this break with a female.
My first wave was my best wave. I lucked into a good spot, wound up and hit the section pretty hard. Upon descending, the next section threatened to fold over me and I grabbed my rail and went under it to safety.
It took a good hour for me to get my next wave. The high tide was strangling the waves. The ones that managed to break at an acceptable distance from the dry rocks tended to section off hard, and if one showed up which didn't, you had to be in the right spot.
I happened to paddle out past the pack a bit, risking a section dashing my dreams and body against the rocks of despair, and a wave happened to be arriving to meet me. I heard one of the boys groan at my fortune as I whirled around for it.
I hit it well, but too high and got stuck up at the top. Had the tide been lower I might have made it back down. I flamingo-ed out with all of my weight on my front foot and held my balance to the point of fading.
Then the three shitlord locals came by and were not letting anyone have a go at anything. Yeah, I could've paddled past them and eaten wave foam on all of the sections-off but I decided to go in after twenty more minutes of waiting for a wave in.
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