I wanted to go surf early today but m'lady'd said she wanted to go to the beach.
We got in the car around 930 and headed down, only to get caught in nasty traffic as we sniffed the outskirts of La Libertad (town). It took us about twenty minutes to get through that bumping of bumpers and we were finally released. We all got out, gathered our stuff, and 'screened up. I was shocked at the still-smooth ocean surface despite it being just shy of 11AM.
I was amping to get out there as there was a semblance of corners out there. They were fat, to be sure, but they were opening up somewhat.
I paddled out right at our lunch spot (they charge $10/adult to use the facilities, which can be applied towards lunch). I caught one within five minutes of having perched. It didn't do much of anything, just a fatty with only some push.
There were two highlights of the session. I made it around a corner on a left and was able to do a nice off-the-lip and stomp it. As I gathered my board and paddled out, Jerson of Surf Strong Surf School whistled his approval from near the sand. I gave him a what's-up head nod.
The second highlight was seeing Pando's' cousin, whom I hadn't spoken to since maybe the early 2000's. He was out on a bigger board with Cucaracho. I saw him catch a meaty right but while he made the drop he immediately biffed it. Line in head, I paddled over to say hi. He was amped to see me and then I said, "Wow, man, you've gotten better!" with my trademarked shit-eating grin. He was mildly amused at best.
We talked story for a bit, and then I caught a really racy right. I had a questionable spot to hit but I opted to pump. There was to be no pay-off for my patience, as the thing shut down on me after about three pumps. I had nowhere to go with my speed. I proned out and went in to see if Raquel needed help.
While trudging back to our HQ for our time at the beach, I heard a loud SMOOCH as I walked past a gaggle of gals. I was being sexually harassed! FINALLY!
We got in the car around 930 and headed down, only to get caught in nasty traffic as we sniffed the outskirts of La Libertad (town). It took us about twenty minutes to get through that bumping of bumpers and we were finally released. We all got out, gathered our stuff, and 'screened up. I was shocked at the still-smooth ocean surface despite it being just shy of 11AM.
I was amping to get out there as there was a semblance of corners out there. They were fat, to be sure, but they were opening up somewhat.
I paddled out right at our lunch spot (they charge $10/adult to use the facilities, which can be applied towards lunch). I caught one within five minutes of having perched. It didn't do much of anything, just a fatty with only some push.
There were two highlights of the session. I made it around a corner on a left and was able to do a nice off-the-lip and stomp it. As I gathered my board and paddled out, Jerson of Surf Strong Surf School whistled his approval from near the sand. I gave him a what's-up head nod.
The second highlight was seeing Pando's' cousin, whom I hadn't spoken to since maybe the early 2000's. He was out on a bigger board with Cucaracho. I saw him catch a meaty right but while he made the drop he immediately biffed it. Line in head, I paddled over to say hi. He was amped to see me and then I said, "Wow, man, you've gotten better!" with my trademarked shit-eating grin. He was mildly amused at best.
We talked story for a bit, and then I caught a really racy right. I had a questionable spot to hit but I opted to pump. There was to be no pay-off for my patience, as the thing shut down on me after about three pumps. I had nowhere to go with my speed. I proned out and went in to see if Raquel needed help.
While trudging back to our HQ for our time at the beach, I heard a loud SMOOCH as I walked past a gaggle of gals. I was being sexually harassed! FINALLY!
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| View of a set wave right before noon. The wind stayed light until about 12:30 which is rare. |
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