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Tuesday, December 31, 2013

2013 Wrap-Up

Eighty-Two Session.  That's one every 4.45 days.  Since the birth of my daughter, I've surfed three times, and seeing as to her being 75 days old today, that throttled my average.

Before Lucia, I averaged one session every 3.67 days.  Last year, I averaged one session every 2.81 days. 

A few things that explain the discrepancy:

  • There were no surf trips this year.  Last year, during one two-week stint to El Salvador, I surfed twenty times in twelve full days.  That'll up the average!
  • I was busier at work, killing the chance for a few afternoon sessions.
  • I bought a house.  This is a time-consuming process just on negotiation and investigation alone, not including moving and securing a tenant for the Cardiff pad.
  • While parts of Summer/early Fall were ok, this year was pretty bad from a consistency standpoint.
As Lucia gets older and more accustomed to sleeping through the night, my count should go up into 2014.

12.17.13 Final Sesh of the Year

I took advantage of Raquel and Lucia's restful night and gathered my gear.  The walk out to the water was uneventful, save for the disappointment I felt at seeing very little out there.

I paddled out just south of the staircase close to halfway between the pier and Wisconsin.  A set came and I duckdived through it without issue, though I felt a surprising surge of power.

I caught a right on which I pumped a couple of times, then laid into a roundhouse cutty.  I smacked the whitewash, then straightened out as the wave closed out.

I caught a left and pumped once, then went for a snap floater.  I came out of it awkwardly and late, but I stomped it.

The tide swelled to the point where the set waves were few and far between.  Those that did come were fat and would closeout upon jacking.  Over it.