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Tuesday, January 16, 2018

1.16.18 Back to Playa Colorado with First Hint of Swell

I had to abort my first attempt at leaving the house with my board.  My eldest decided she does in fact like me and started crying, begging me not to go.  I solemnly put my board back.  I ate my Frosted Flakes and figured that was it.  My wife got up and then she told me to go.

By the time I got down there it was well past first light.  There was one guy checking it but no one in the water.  It looked pretty bleak out there with some almost-skimmable waves breaking a little too fast.  I headed towards Wyoming, the break north of Colorado.

A couple of guys in wetsuit tops paddled out into the nothingness at Colorado, in what I assume is a faith play.  A rideable set finally broke at Wyoming and I went out to my very own peak!

It was not to last, as one, then another, logger paddled out.  Sets were inconsistent, but chest-high and they had more than a drop!  I caught a racy left on which I bottom-turned and was too late to do much, but watched a foot from the barrel to see if I could have made it.  The answer is yes, for about two seconds before the section in front collapsed.

I caught another left and tried to get in the barrel but couldn't fit.

I tried my luck on my backhand.  I was really late on my first, made even later by the  gusting winds.  I descended and swung around, I poked my board up at it and was able to come around but I for whatever reason aborted even though it felt as though I'd made it with my noise pointed in the right direction.

A second right and I tried really hard to pump, I got one in and on my second I was hung up on the blazing lip.  I was catapulted face first into the trough and was really lucky not to have hit bottom considering once I stood up I was in hip-deep water.

My final right: redemption!  I pumped once and hit it as the wave sped off.

I caught a final closeout in.

Sunday, January 14, 2018

1.14.18 Forgettable Pangas Slumpbuster

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I had to really convince myself to surf this afternoon.  I walked the long way to Panga Drops and walked out to the sand, then back towards the break.  A place I'd never seen break before looked really good considering the lack of swell in the water.  I checked that for fifteen minutes and no other waves like that one magic set came.  The absolutely howling offshore winds were hammering me and coating my lower body in sand.

One of my neighbors is a photographer for NSR, a company that has a surf shop/vacation rentals/real estate business, among other things.  I talked to him for a while as he shot pics for the surf report.  He said it looked pretty good all things considered.  We watched the set of the day not quite detonate and I figured that was as amped as I would get, so I should harness it and get out there.

The vast majority of waves were strictly drops.  There was a sweeper out there who was having trouble catching waves, although there was a logger who was snagging quite a few.

While talking to the photog, I compared this spot to monogamy.  You're sitting on your peak and you will see other, pretty waves break and you will be tempted.  But you know as soon as you paddle over to your new crush you will regret it as you will miss your old one.

As a result of this reinforcing conversation,  I sat in the same spot.  The stakes were a little higher today, for if you missed a wave you paddled for, you were punished by myriad needles in the form of salt water projectile launched by the offshores.

I will describe all the waves worth the effort in the below area.

Friday, January 5, 2018

1.4.18 WAY Bigger than I Expected at Inside Pangas

It was pretty warm this afternoon and the swell was tiny and only going to get smaller.  I figured I should go paddle around if only to cool off.

I walked to the spot and was surprised to see it sporting a semblance of rideability.  The tide was coming up, almost to its apex, so it was the shorebreak show.

I paddled out and was shocked when I caught my first wave, as it was nearly head-high.  I caught another, then the pack enveloped me.  I paddled south to emptier pastures, to a peak which had looked rideable from shore and no one on it.

I sat there for ten minutes and then was shuttled back to my original spot by the current.  I caught one more wave, another too-quick virtual closeout and was again surprised at the power.  Another thing that struck me was the rushing foamy water made it feel as though I was moving in slow motion; it was really freaky.

I paddled, then perched once more and while looking towards shore I saw something I hadn't seen at the beach since 2002...

A woman's top third had the same color as her middle third.  Could it be? Could it be I had snapped my tittyless-at-the-beach streak?  I strained to confirm my hypothesis but couldn't make out nipples, let alone areoli.

The shortest ten seconds of my life and then that's when it happened, she put a black bikini top over them. YES! It HAD happened after all.

I spent the rest of my time in the water changing the lyrics of popular songs to strictly 'titties'.  My favorite was the synth part of the Ghostbusters theme song.

I caught another wave and went in.  As if to put the cherry on top of the titty sundae, a local in a golf cart offered me a ride back to my condo building!