I woke up about three times this morning, the last one being at 506, meaning I was about twenty minutes late from my normal departure time. Luckily I'd put all of the stuff I needed (save for coffee and Hydro Flask) into the ride the night before.
The swell was strengthening as the morning wore on. I was really hoping the beachbreak would start macking with some makeable ones.
I had a bunch of late drops and made all of them. I floatered as I took off on one and that one turned into an airdrop with no pay-off.
I had one where the end section was slightly in front but screwed up the timing and hit it too early.
I had a couple of really racy rights, the best one on which I felt like I was really generating speed, but the only thing that helped with was the height of my flop over the close-out.
I had about a half-hour break in between waves and decided to bail to see what the point was doing...
The swell was strengthening as the morning wore on. I was really hoping the beachbreak would start macking with some makeable ones.
I had a bunch of late drops and made all of them. I floatered as I took off on one and that one turned into an airdrop with no pay-off.
I had one where the end section was slightly in front but screwed up the timing and hit it too early.
I had a couple of really racy rights, the best one on which I felt like I was really generating speed, but the only thing that helped with was the height of my flop over the close-out.
I had about a half-hour break in between waves and decided to bail to see what the point was doing...
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