I thought about going back to La Bocana again this day. But the tide was going to be dropping and last week's thorn (turned out to be some synthetic thingamabobber my wife was able to pull out almost immediately) made me go back to old habits.
I was hopeful that last week's swell had cleaned up the point. My first view of point proper was exciting, though a bit small, a nice peeling wave with some hollowness.
I walked down and watched it and saw only nasty sections-off and even some that sectioned off so hard I would classify them as close-outs, with no rideable shoulder remaining.
And so I went...
It looked promising. I waded out and lifted my leg up to get over the whitewash. The wave hit me perfectly and I immediately felt my junk become awash with saltwater, which really made the ol' sores sting.
The vast majority of waves were either too slow (but big, very characteristic of this spot since I started surfing it in high school) or dumping hard or if you were lucky you got one look at a section.
The aforementioned being mentioned I did catch one with a weak wall. I did a mellow top turn and did a weak bonk.
I caught one really fun wave on which I descended all the way, really compressed into my bottom turn and launched off the lip, though I lost the board in the process.
I caught one right over which I flopped after a pump. The wind turned about an hour early today. I headed back towards the point where my ride back to Tecla awaited and saw three silhoutted heads bobbing in the distance, at the El Cocal beachbreak. The point seems to be on everyone's shitlist until it sorts out its bathymetry issues.
I was hopeful that last week's swell had cleaned up the point. My first view of point proper was exciting, though a bit small, a nice peeling wave with some hollowness.
I walked down and watched it and saw only nasty sections-off and even some that sectioned off so hard I would classify them as close-outs, with no rideable shoulder remaining.
And so I went...
It looked promising. I waded out and lifted my leg up to get over the whitewash. The wave hit me perfectly and I immediately felt my junk become awash with saltwater, which really made the ol' sores sting.
The vast majority of waves were either too slow (but big, very characteristic of this spot since I started surfing it in high school) or dumping hard or if you were lucky you got one look at a section.
The aforementioned being mentioned I did catch one with a weak wall. I did a mellow top turn and did a weak bonk.
I caught one really fun wave on which I descended all the way, really compressed into my bottom turn and launched off the lip, though I lost the board in the process.
I caught one right over which I flopped after a pump. The wind turned about an hour early today. I headed back towards the point where my ride back to Tecla awaited and saw three silhoutted heads bobbing in the distance, at the El Cocal beachbreak. The point seems to be on everyone's shitlist until it sorts out its bathymetry issues.
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