I thought I was going to be dropping my eldest off at school and as such, wouldn't be able to surf.
School was cancelled so we made plans to go to the beach.
The waves were better than expected. I took my Tomo down expecting them to be small but there were some shoulder-high sets out thar.
I bailed on my first airdrop. I didn't think it was worth trying as it jacked up faster than expected and there was nowhere to go.
I did have a nice off-the-lip on a left which I pulled. I was amped at how skatey the Tomo felt.
I had another fun one on which I pumped dangerously high in a steep part of the wave. I came down with tons of speed after a couple of pumps but with nowhere to go.
I also did the following abortion of a carving 180 attempt:
The wind lifted. The tide dropped and with it my spirits. In I went.
School was cancelled so we made plans to go to the beach.
The waves were better than expected. I took my Tomo down expecting them to be small but there were some shoulder-high sets out thar.
I bailed on my first airdrop. I didn't think it was worth trying as it jacked up faster than expected and there was nowhere to go.
I did have a nice off-the-lip on a left which I pulled. I was amped at how skatey the Tomo felt.
I had another fun one on which I pumped dangerously high in a steep part of the wave. I came down with tons of speed after a couple of pumps but with nowhere to go.
I also did the following abortion of a carving 180 attempt:
The wind lifted. The tide dropped and with it my spirits. In I went.
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