I got sick the night of my Balsamar session and didn't surf for 16 days.
I got quite the scare on the way down. It had rained for much of the night and so I was taking it even more slowly than usual. I guess I subconsciously track the oncoming headlights because I freaked out without warning when they were interrupted by a small box truck with no brakelights. Thankfully they were farther away than I thought and I had PLENTY of time to react accordingly.
My muscles in the middle of my upper back have been rocking me and I got a massage to alleviate it. I am still sore from it and every paddle, especially my right arm, stung.
I opted for the beachbreak today because the point has been so wonky for so long. The high tide was almost at its apex and the surface of the water looked like diluted chocolate milk. There were some head-and-a-half mackers breaking out the back, a product of the ferocious 18-second period swell.
I tried to time my wade out but I accelerated my launch because the sticks and branches the rivers had been deposited with the rains were slapping into me.
I paddled out and I jammed out there. I wasn't paddling especially efficiently but I zoomed out there. I took a couple of smaller ones on the noggin.
There was so much water moving around. You could see the potential out there though. Some slabs were breaking, mostly unmakeable, but some to behold. If you lucked into the right spot you could get a chocolatey cover-up.
I caught one right, maybe head-high and it fizzled out on me. I was over it, I just FELT the beatings that were going to happen and so I went in.
I walked to the pointbreak and there were three or so dudes on it. I had a fun time crossing the raging river. It wasn't as gnarly as I've ever seen it, but top ten mos def. The water flows quickly and since you can't see, you're just guessing as to whether your next foothold is a good one. I remembered from my October sessions during the tropical depression to fight and prepare against the "foot drift" as the river's force attempts to make one due the splits. I ended up slipping and, in slow motion, plopping down onto my posterior.
I had a little scare on the paddle out, when a pretty good-sized wave broke hard about fifteen feet outside of me. Back in 2000 at this very spot in this very spot, a massive double-up detonated and knocked me hard onto my back. I pinballed off the rocks as I was quickly swept up the dry riverbed. I was humbled that day. But today I was the victor! I slipped a little as I jumped with my board and paddled hard with one hand and kicked as fast as I could. Next wave/water cushion I hopped onto my board and paddled out without incident.
The waves were big but still pretty bad because of the bottom. I had one really good turn off the top but the section in front shut down. I probably caught about five waves total as the pack grew.
On the way in I did better on the river.
It's time for my big announcement...
We're moving back to SD County! I will be going back into real estate full time and with renewed fervor. I've spent the last hundred or so days researching how to be a better broker. My wife wasn't able to find a gig given the tight constraints we had for said gig (being there when our little one was out of school and a very flexible schedule) so she will be joining me as a licensed agent.
A few reasons for the move:
It's been really nice reconnecting with most of my family, from my sister and nieces to my uncle and first cousin. Unfortunately my mom's remaining brother and his children have shunned me for reasons unknown. Maybe if I ever start ripping they will love me.
So the blog will continue back from where it sprang! I will be surfing with ear plugs and on a much more regulated schedule.
I got quite the scare on the way down. It had rained for much of the night and so I was taking it even more slowly than usual. I guess I subconsciously track the oncoming headlights because I freaked out without warning when they were interrupted by a small box truck with no brakelights. Thankfully they were farther away than I thought and I had PLENTY of time to react accordingly.
 |
| The truck in question, after the threat had been mitigated |
My muscles in the middle of my upper back have been rocking me and I got a massage to alleviate it. I am still sore from it and every paddle, especially my right arm, stung.
 |
| The rainy season is here and with it, much more dramatic paiságes (EddieSurfs attempt at growing his French audience). |
I opted for the beachbreak today because the point has been so wonky for so long. The high tide was almost at its apex and the surface of the water looked like diluted chocolate milk. There were some head-and-a-half mackers breaking out the back, a product of the ferocious 18-second period swell.
I tried to time my wade out but I accelerated my launch because the sticks and branches the rivers had been deposited with the rains were slapping into me.
I paddled out and I jammed out there. I wasn't paddling especially efficiently but I zoomed out there. I took a couple of smaller ones on the noggin.
There was so much water moving around. You could see the potential out there though. Some slabs were breaking, mostly unmakeable, but some to behold. If you lucked into the right spot you could get a chocolatey cover-up.
I caught one right, maybe head-high and it fizzled out on me. I was over it, I just FELT the beatings that were going to happen and so I went in.
I walked to the pointbreak and there were three or so dudes on it. I had a fun time crossing the raging river. It wasn't as gnarly as I've ever seen it, but top ten mos def. The water flows quickly and since you can't see, you're just guessing as to whether your next foothold is a good one. I remembered from my October sessions during the tropical depression to fight and prepare against the "foot drift" as the river's force attempts to make one due the splits. I ended up slipping and, in slow motion, plopping down onto my posterior.
I had a little scare on the paddle out, when a pretty good-sized wave broke hard about fifteen feet outside of me. Back in 2000 at this very spot in this very spot, a massive double-up detonated and knocked me hard onto my back. I pinballed off the rocks as I was quickly swept up the dry riverbed. I was humbled that day. But today I was the victor! I slipped a little as I jumped with my board and paddled hard with one hand and kicked as fast as I could. Next wave/water cushion I hopped onto my board and paddled out without incident.
The waves were big but still pretty bad because of the bottom. I had one really good turn off the top but the section in front shut down. I probably caught about five waves total as the pack grew.
On the way in I did better on the river.
It's time for my big announcement...
We're moving back to SD County! I will be going back into real estate full time and with renewed fervor. I've spent the last hundred or so days researching how to be a better broker. My wife wasn't able to find a gig given the tight constraints we had for said gig (being there when our little one was out of school and a very flexible schedule) so she will be joining me as a licensed agent.
A few reasons for the move:
- Our property loses value as it gets closer to lease-end due to the will-they/won't-they renew the lease trepidation. As risk goes up, reward must follow for any semi-intelligent investor to buy, so I will be doing a 1031 into something else. I'd initially considered a mobile home park or a self-storage facility but I will likely be doing a managed apartment building someplace in the southeast, as the CA returns are almost as bad as the taxes and landlord laws. Our monthly income will increase 30+% and we will be raising rents as the market allows, so that will be nice!
- I grew tired of chilling. I want to be doing something and boy will I be! I will be going hard in the RE game and I really don't have a choice.
- My wife isn't a fan of the way of life down here. I don't blame her...
It's been really nice reconnecting with most of my family, from my sister and nieces to my uncle and first cousin. Unfortunately my mom's remaining brother and his children have shunned me for reasons unknown. Maybe if I ever start ripping they will love me.
So the blog will continue back from where it sprang! I will be surfing with ear plugs and on a much more regulated schedule.
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