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Sunday, November 19, 2017

11.18.17 PC on New Board!

I couldn't fathom the thought of renting a board for more than a week.

I went to SJdS and visited four or five spots and found one intriguing option: a Mayhem 6'0" shaped for Kolohe Andino.  The price was right at $225 (including fins) but there was a crease on it.  I hemmed but didn't quite haw and let it go, even though I was boardless and getting desparate.

Yesterday, we trekked to Popoyo and I couldn't find anything either.

Our neighbor downstairs has a quiver of boards right at his entrance and I asked him if he had any he'd be interested in selling.  He said yeah and it took us a couple of days to link up.  I saw his boards and they were a little too potato chip-y; I didn't want a board I could snap easily.  He told me about a place that sells boards and I hit them up today.

I got a 5'10" Al Merrick Bunny Chow.  I'd never heard of a Bunny Chow but then I've been way out of the game.  Two neighbors, including the aforementioned Brian, asked me what I paid and both winced.  The old EddieP might have gotten butthurt and likely angry at the face looking back at him in the mirror but I did a lot of research and the $330 was a solid price for the board and fins. NOT ONLY THAT but I talked him into a free bar of wax for having bought the board.  SUCKER!

I walked out of our condo complex at about 340 and walked to a lot we're interested in, then counted the steps to the beach access (489).  I saw a tantalizing wave break at Pangas and I headed in that way after making out about ten bobbing heads towards Colorado.  I spotted just about nothing surfable the whole walk.  I hung out there for a few minutes and the two dudes out weren't catching anything.

I thought about paddling out anyways but I decided I really wanted to try the board out and so a fifteen-minute or so walk I undertook to Colorado.

I caught my first wave, a left, and pumped to oblivion.  I intended on doing a roundhouse cutback but ended up settling for a slash on which the fins slid out just enough to make me dig a rail and bobble. 
I caught a couple of forgettable ones and while sprint-paddling to set up a duckdive, I felt a twinge in the arch of my left foot.  I flexed it and it went away pretty quickly.  I caught a right late, bobbled, recovered, but I couldn't feel my toes very well.  This feeling dogged me the rest of the session whenever I stood up.  I'm going to try to remedy it by laying the board on the sand and putting all my weight on my back foot on the archbar of the tail pad.

I had a left on which I decided at the last minute to do a floater but my angle was off.

I pumped on another wave and was going to go for a roundhouse cutback but I bogged.  I decided to torque only my lower body and I was surprised at how much rotation I got out of the board as I faded out the back.

I went in, satisfied with the purchase.  I counted the steps to another lot we're considering which is smaller and cheaper (393).

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