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Saturday, November 11, 2017

11.11.17 Inside Pangas

The walk out to the beach access was punctuated by my staring into the rising sun's glare.  I could make out a couple of heads bobbing.  I looked all of thirty seconds and didn't see anything remotely surfable in that time.

I'd surfed Colorado already and wanted to see what Pangas had to offer.  The tide was just shy of its apex and I figured I might have better luck there.  I took the walk and got only semi-pounded in the shorebreak.  The instant my body hit the board I felt the tenderness from the last session.

There were less than ten guys on it, most of them way outside.  In my whole session, I saw maybe two guys out there catch waves.  The inside was very shifty but had some nice peaks, though on the rights only.  I opted to sit in the middle by myself and see what would come my way.

Within fifteen minutes I got my first wave and it was a doozy.  I wasn't convinced it was catchable until a sider swept across its face and shifted the steep section to right where I was sitting.  I caught the right late, turned off the bottom and smacked it.  I didn't get a release up top until late in the turn, when upon my realization I really stomped.  I almost lost it, then recovered, bottom turned again and hooked another turn up top. 

I stuck my hand and wrist in the wave, made it, then half-descended.  I thought about trying for an inside connection, then became convinced it wasn't there and faded off the back.

I paddled back out then sat for a while.  I took off on a left which showed promise with its steep drop but devolved into nothing.  I leapt from the board for a sailor dive over the wave and opened my eyes for a little bit in the air as I began wondering what was taking so long for me to hit the water.

I caught a couple of other closeouts but they were nothing noteworthy.  The correct play would have been for me to paddle out at first light but it was impossible given my daddy duty.

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