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Monday, November 13, 2017

11.13.17 PC as swell drops

I barely glanced at Pangas today.  I thought about not looking at it at all and die-is-casting myself.  I stole a glance and while I saw nice waves peeling, the sight of a sweeper accelerated my trajectory towards Playa Colorado and away from Panga Drops.

The waves didn't look great with a little turbulence on the water.  In California, I would have been excited to surf waves like this (especially with less than ten people on it), so I tapped into my Cali consciousness and elicited some stoke out of it.

I caught my first wave within five minutes.  It was a right, a bit lazy, but it let me do a snap on a steepish section while sticking my hand in the face.  I made it without issues, then kicked out just as I was to descend again.  I'd gotten the best part of the wave and was angling for the best part of another wave.

I caught a left a bit late, eventually made it around the section with an elongated bottom turn, then had to stop short of a top turn as crest began cascading down (I christened it as a "direction change").  I felt my board loosen up a bit, then stomped down.  As I was about to ascend, the wave let out its death rattle and I was forced to kick out.

I paddled out again and perched as the crowd around me doubled in size.  I saw a bigger dude go for a wave on which he was really late. He two-paddled it right into the barrel and, though he eventually got swallowed and consumed by it, I was left impressed.

I thought to myself how long it had been since I was in a barrel.  I couldn't remember getting one on the trip earlier this year and it didn't happen in my two sessions in El Salvador last year.  So my last barrel could've been on this very stretch of sand thirty-nine months ago.

A left came and I saw a shot.  I took it, and the barrel pinched me immediately.  I couldn't even fit my upper body into it so I'm not counting it.

The crowd continued increasing and the waves got a little bigger, though they were a bit less frequent.  I took a close-out in.

Ribs are feeling better and more accustomed to the pressure and friction of a board.  I feel like my paddling muscles are all the way back (was pretty sore after first session).  I'm still taking it easy on sun exposure and my sessions are shorter as a result.

On the way back, I walked on the beach and was brutalized by sand fleas.  I'll take them over mosquitoes and especially horse flies any day!

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