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Saturday, November 25, 2017

11.25.17 Bloated PC with light crowd; PC Pros/Cons

Yep, it was high tide again but this time a farther walk to go for a session.

Here's my opinion pros and cons after having surfed it about a dozen times total:


  • Several peaks, which helps split crowd up
  • Can work at both tides if swell cooperates, which helps split crowd up
  • Can handle big swells
  • Rivermouth helps shape sandbars
  • Private-ish wave: only those staying at HI and RS can surf it unless they boat in (could be considered a con, if you're staying elsewhere).  People in Gigante can walk but it's a long one.
  • Offshore winds allow one the option to wait for perfect tide/swell bump if working
  • Near another wave within walking distance, which helps diffuse da dudes 
  • About as good as waves get when stars align
  • Very fast and very hard to make on shortboard without great positioning/luck and flawless set-up pump/turn
  • I would estimate that ninety percent of barrels close out and the remaining eight or so percent fold over into unmakeable oblivion.  On most days, my experience so far has been there are no makeable barrels; covers-up yes, but no substantial makeable barrels.
  • Rivers bank up during dry season and don't break through until rainy season is well underway.  S swells start in March/April and rain doesn't start until mid-May generally.  Conversely, one can reap the rewards of late-season swell (this time of year is considered late- to off-season)
  • It photographs really well and causes many faraway loins to purr, which leads to it being...
  • Crowded
 I think I made it around one section today and though I did complete the top turn I had that toe-curling numbing of the arch issue.  The most fun I had was curling into my first pigdog in more than three years and being comically too far on the flats.  I was eighty percent laughing, twenty percent wary of a beating despite the shoulder-high wave.  I did crabgrab as well but given the high tide I couldn't squeeze in.

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