I was ready to do another pre-dawn session but unfortunately the tide was at its apex right at first light.
I paddled out and was slightly surprised at the sparse-ish crowd. The waves didn't look great, but every so often a nice set would come. Magicseaweed was claiming today to be a three-star day but it certainly didn't seem that way.
I paddled out one peak north and was by myself. I almost immediately caught my best wave, a fat left. I rose up, then when I felt the wave about to cavitate, STOMPED down and got a ton of speed. That got me around the section. It crossed my mind to to a cutback because of the relative fatness of the waves but I was too amped and tried to smash a weak section and ate it.
I caught a couple of rights and had to pump the brakes off my bottom turn when I realized how fat they were. Every right I got did that, so I eschewed them for lefts.
Nothing else of note happened and I went in after about forty-five minutes. The sun was getting a bit nasty and not worth the conditions.
I paddled out and was slightly surprised at the sparse-ish crowd. The waves didn't look great, but every so often a nice set would come. Magicseaweed was claiming today to be a three-star day but it certainly didn't seem that way.
I paddled out one peak north and was by myself. I almost immediately caught my best wave, a fat left. I rose up, then when I felt the wave about to cavitate, STOMPED down and got a ton of speed. That got me around the section. It crossed my mind to to a cutback because of the relative fatness of the waves but I was too amped and tried to smash a weak section and ate it.
I caught a couple of rights and had to pump the brakes off my bottom turn when I realized how fat they were. Every right I got did that, so I eschewed them for lefts.
Nothing else of note happened and I went in after about forty-five minutes. The sun was getting a bit nasty and not worth the conditions.
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