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Saturday, December 9, 2017

12.9.17 Onshore Mid-Morning PC

I was ready to do another pre-dawn session but unfortunately the tide was at its apex right at first light.

I paddled out and was slightly surprised at the sparse-ish crowd.  The waves didn't look great, but every so often a nice set would come.  Magicseaweed was claiming today to be a three-star day but it certainly didn't seem that way.

I paddled out one peak north and was by myself.  I almost immediately caught my best wave, a fat left.  I rose up, then when I felt the wave about to cavitate, STOMPED down and got a ton of speed.  That got me around the section.  It crossed my mind to to a cutback because of the relative fatness of the waves but I was too amped and tried to smash a weak section and ate it.

I caught a couple of rights and had to pump the brakes off my bottom turn when I realized how fat they were.  Every right I got did that, so I eschewed them for lefts.

Nothing else of note happened and I went in after about forty-five minutes.  The sun was getting a bit nasty and not worth the conditions.

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