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Saturday, December 23, 2017

12.23.17 Not too Crowded PM Sesh at PC

I managed to get a mosquito bite right past where my toes meet and decided to go sans sandals to not have the strap rub on the bite. 

I walked about a half-hour down and paddled out after a brief check.  The offshore was there but not too strong, which is always nice.  The waves were still very fast and not one barrel was made in my time out there.

I got another sick carve in which decimated my chances of continuing on with the wave.  I'm still doing the going-for-a-roundhouse-but-end-up-carving thing.  Hopefully I'll be able to snap out of that soon.

The absolute highlight of the session was a left which WAY down the line had a guy going for it.  He pigdogged into the barrel and was in there for a fair amount as I eyed him while paddling for the wave.  He was about thirty yards away when the foam ball swept away his board and his dreams and I pounced, elated.

I got on, snapstalled and was in the barrel.  It immediately started passing me by and so I tried to stand out of it since it wasn't more than shoulder-high and got slapped onto my ass.

It got a little inconsistent and I went in after about an hour.

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