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Friday, December 22, 2017

12.22.17 Bloated Pangas Slumpbuster

A swell that was supposed to fill in after the last swell mysteriously evaporated from all swell models and I got to see this stretch of beach at flatness.  Granted, it wasn't completely flat, but I took the last ten or  so days to get my amperage up.

I saw the first of the new albeit modest swell would be hitting overnight and I made plans to walk out in the dark.  There was basically nothing at PC and I walked the twelve or so minutes to Pangas and watched one logger paddle out.  A set wave came every ten minutes or so. Out thar.

The session was about what I expected.  I caught a long left on which I did very conservative 'turns' and got almost all of the way to the beach before I kicked out.

I caught a wave really late, and air-dropped then ate it.

The most memorable thing that happened was as I was paddling out the last time I felt a jolt on my right wrist.  It felt at about a quarter-strength of getting an electric shock.  As soon as I felt it, I felt it wrap around to my forearm.  It was pretty nasty and I assumed it was a jellyfish sting but I think it's chicicaste, as it felt as thought it was a thread wrapping around me.

I caught a wave all the way in.  It closed out and I just kept going on it until just before hitting the sand.

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