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Tuesday, December 5, 2017

12.5.17 Pre-Sunrise Sesh at PC

I'd spotted a neighbor at the previous evening's festivities at the beach club.  He said he wanted to surf early in the morning.  I told him I would be out at first light (I'd warned Raquel last week I'd be paddling out super early on Tuesday).  He said he would join me and he fist-bumped me so as to solidify our bro date.

I set the alarm for 4:30 (I've been waking up anywhere from 3:30-4:40 all week, but I didn't want to be late and bum out my new friend).  I woke before the alarm, saw it was light-ish out and marveled at my body's internal clock and how it just knows when I need to get up.  I checked my phone and it was 2:02.

I went back to bed, beat the alarm by ten minutes, and got ready to go.  Lucia got up too and I made her breakfast while my coffee was still going.

Eventually, I got going and I marveled at my walk through the woods and my silhouette by moonshadow.

I got there and Buzz was there taking pics to cajole people to come on down and stay at his place (I'd do the same thing if in his shoes, by the way).  I asked him about where it was good and I paddled out at the left. There was no one out!  No sign of my fist-bump friend...

I caught five or six waves, all lefts.  I pulled back on a couple on which I could've gotten immediately barreled, though there would be nasty aftermath.  Here a couple of pics Buzz took, nothing exciting...

My first wave was a little fat.  I got a couple of long pumps on it and I could hear the spray flying off my rail and on to the area behind the wave.  Nothing came of it as I faded.

I did a pretty sick, or so it felt, carve on which I'd channeled my inner Pancho Sullivan.

I caught shoulder-high wave, made it around the initial section, snap-stalled ever so slightly, and got covered up for the first time in more than three years.  I caught a quarter-second view of the barrel before something went wrong and I was in the drink.

I got around another section, bottom-turned hard and fell on my top turn.  I was surprised by the mushy shoulder and the wave had spent itself on the section it put in my way.

The whole time I was out up until my last two minutes, I was completely by myself in the water.  As a result I have informed Raquel I will be doing the first light session more often.

Never did see that dude, though I saw his kid at the entrance to our condo building!


  1. EDDIE P! I'm loving these posts doggy! They've been fun to read and feels like I'm getting down on the sesh/family time too! LOL Sounds like you and the P-Clan are properly assimilating. Talk soon Bud! P.S. - Absolute Shit winter in CO thus far :(

    1. Thanks for checking it homey. Not sure if you saw the posts from the road trip, they start 10/26. When are you coming down?