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Sunday, December 3, 2017

12.3.17 Bigger PC with strengthening offshores

It was as flat as I'd ever seen it when the fam and I descended upon its sands earlier today.  The tide was extremely low thanks to the supermoon and the surf responded in kind.

I was shocked to see it shoulder-high  on the sets.  I paddled out where there was no one as the main peak was swarming with dudes.  I caught a forgettable wave, but then I had one with a little corner to it and I bottom-turned, compressed then slashed off the top while sliding out my fins and landed cleanly.  I think I've solved the mystery!

I caught a right and was drawing out a bottom turn to obliterate the lip when I stopped short because I was afraid the wave would pass me by.  I did a half-turn half-pump and then the wave officially did pass me by.

I kept looking towards shore and saw Raquel with the girls (the ever loyal Chucho right by them as well) and decided to go in because it looked like she needed help.

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