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Saturday, December 30, 2017

12.30.17 Beat-The-Heat Panga Sesh

I wasn't expecting much today.  Playa Colorado is on life support and it was evident this morning when I counted about two dozen heads picking apart the scraps, like buzzards picking at nearly-bare bones.

I managed to paddle out through a secret (to me) rock patch.  On my wade out I got one close call when I semi-jumped and was surprised by a shallow rock.  The ball of my foot barely cleared out and I precariously balanced on it on one foot as a wave came.  I was transported  to my struggles of years-past at Punta Roca, but turning my sights seaward snapped me immediately out of that whimsy.

My first wave was my best wave.  A too-fat right started breaking at the top, I let it hit me and by the time I stood up I was hanging on the ledge.  The offshore picked up and I got blasted in the face, free-falling maybe two feet into oblivion.  I came up amped at the difficulty level despite the small size.

A couple of forgettable, borderline unsurfable waves later and I went in.  If I was out for fifteen minutes I'd be surprised.

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