This Sunday I had the opportunity to surf the secret spot with my buddy. I almost bailed on this sesh as I was tired, but I'm obviously glad I went.
As tends to happen with this spot, I look at it and go, "There's no way. It's flat out there." Aaron, ever the optimist and always knowing the spot better than me says, "We'll get some waves out there."
This spot has a longer sometimes barreling right and a short, sometimes barreling left. As a goofyfoot, I am supposed to favor the lefts but those rights are just so damn tasty.
We paddled out and didn't see much. We sat there for a bit and the waves started rolling through. I did my patented kneeboard backside barrel stance in which my feet don't hit my board, just my front knee. My back leg splays out and could theoretically be used to further stall in the barrel.
This guy who works at my gym was paddling out and I took a wave late. It was probably the shortest time from takeoff to barrel that I've ever had and was in it probably for three seconds before I lost my board. I couldn't help myself, and asked him, "Did you see that barrel?!" like an amped grom. He said he could see my face deep in there and wished he'd had a camera.
I had another wave in which I was a bit early for it so I stalled on takeoff then shoved my weight hard towards the nose of the board. Aaron said it looked SICK. It couldn't have been that sick though as I didn't make it.
Aaron caught a wave and the one behind it was a macker BUT I MISSED IT! I looked back longingly at it and saw it spit from behind. I can't remember another time I saw a wave spit from behind so you know it would've been a sick one to make! I was super bummed but less than five minutes later this happened:
Another wave rolled through and it looked like a classic square barrel. Aaron, who introduced me to this spot, wanted it. I usually give him waves if I'm not in the perfect spot but this one I had to have. I took off and stalled hard from the get-go. I got covered up and aimed my board at about a forty-five degree angle from the wave. The lip hit me hard and I kept driving, vision somewhat obscured. The cascading lip hit me again lightly and I quit stalling and I was in the clear! I was in there a good three maybe four seconds.
I let out a somewhat muffled hoot, paddled back out to brag to Aaron that I FINALLY made one. Then I bailed. As I was leaving, I looked back and saw Aaron catch a sick one, threading through the tube and doing a pro-looking mellow fist pump.
No comments:
Post a Comment