This morning I woke up before 5am and just laid there, waiting for first light to get closer. I got my gear and shot up to Oside Pier. I got there at 6:01 and the parking lot (which opens at six) was empty. I did a cursory check and saw a nice fast peeler with no one out and decided that's where I would surf. I got my stuff on and walked past Tyson St., past the surf coach (surf camp killers in a previous post) setting up his tent.
I caught a couple of screamers where I got a couple of pumps in (including one sweet super pump from the top of the wave all the way down!) but alas, both closed out. In restrospect, I should've tried for a foam climb on at least one.
This guy paddled out and caught a sick left, pigdogged it, got pitted and ground up. I hooted him as the lip went over his head and yelled "NICE!" after he came up. I got nothing back in response. Guess he's one of those maddoggers...
As I glanced south, I saw these mackers, just grinding barrels that were sectioning off a bit. The next wave I caught I almost got clipped on, straightened out and rode all the way in. I jogged up to the new set of double twinhomes and paddled out, taking a set on the head in the process.
Then I sat. And sat. And sat...
This young guy paddled out and started talking to me about how sick the waves there. I told him it's really inconsistent. We kept talking and he told me he was sixteen and was asking me about surf trips. He'd never left SoCal to surf anywhere else. I told him he HAD to do it. He said he was planning a trip to Nicaragua. I told him what I knew about it and he was amped. I also told him to check out El Salvador and to definitely surf Punta Roca.
I caught a couple of sick ones and attempted the first floater I've tried all year. I over-rotated and ate it. Then I caught another drainer and did a reo I ALMOST pulled, but I lost it in the wash.
Hopefully the waves keep going this week, nice, strong swell!