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Tuesday, August 16, 2011

8.16.2011 Draining Tyson Street (Oceanside)

This morning I woke up before 5am and just laid there, waiting for first light to get closer.  I got my gear and shot up to Oside Pier.  I got there at 6:01 and the parking lot (which opens at six) was empty.  I did a cursory check and saw a nice fast peeler with no one out and decided that's where I would surf.  I got my stuff on and walked past Tyson St., past the surf coach (surf camp killers in a previous post) setting up his tent.

I caught a couple of screamers where I got a couple of pumps in (including one sweet super pump from the top of the wave all the way down!) but alas, both closed out.  In restrospect, I should've tried for a foam climb on at least one.

This guy paddled out and caught a sick left, pigdogged it, got pitted and ground up.  I hooted him as the lip went over his head and yelled "NICE!" after he came up.  I got nothing back in response.  Guess he's one of those maddoggers...

As I glanced south, I saw these mackers, just grinding barrels that were sectioning off a bit.  The next wave I caught I almost got clipped on, straightened out and rode all the way in.  I jogged up to the new set of double twinhomes and paddled out, taking a set on the head in the process.

Then I sat. And sat. And sat...

This young guy paddled out and started talking to me about how sick the waves there.  I told him it's really inconsistent.  We kept talking and he told me he was sixteen and was asking me about surf trips.  He'd never left SoCal to surf anywhere else.  I told him he HAD to do it.  He said he was planning a trip to Nicaragua.  I told him what I knew about it and he was amped.  I also told him to check out El Salvador and to definitely surf Punta Roca.

I caught a couple of sick ones and attempted the first floater I've tried all year. I over-rotated and ate it.  Then I caught another drainer and did a reo I ALMOST pulled, but I lost it in the wash.

Hopefully the waves keep going this week, nice, strong swell!

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