I woke up at six this morning and had a mini-tragedy. I attempted to hold my wetsuit bucket with one arm while I used the other arm to open the car door. I heard the bucket flex under the weight and the awkward fulcrum point created by my sole grip. The glass jar I keep my almonds in (to grind on for the way up) fell down and broke, spilling out gorgeous and expensive almonds on the paver driveway of my complex. NOOOOO!
I spent about fifteen minutes picking up each and ever almond and shards, then compressed-airing the guishtillos into the corner, where no one could step on them. While picking up the shards, I managed to get a micro-sliver up my index fingernail, what John McCain must've felt during interrogations divided by 100! It's still in there now and gives me a sharp pain once in a while.
I get on the road and check everywhere in Oceanside for waves and settle on Tyson Street. At the beginning of the session, I had an eerie "Where is everybody?" feeling as I was the only one out at seven! I caught a bunch of fast waves and I still can't seem to nail those high-speed off-the-lips but I noticed I'm able to keep my board under me a little better.
One wave in particular stands out. I saw it out the back and scratched furiously for it, not breaking eye contact with it once. I spun around and caught it early-ish. I dropped down and the wave just jacked up behind me. While this was happening, all I could think of was the passage I read by Taj Burrow where he says big waves are when you see people's true balls or style. I did two (and pretty stylish I thought) massive pumps. The end section was one of those weird, behind the peak shoulders but I made it to it, hit it hard and sent spray everywhere. BUT AGAIN I didn't land it. I am in a rut, no question.
I was reflecting on how well I was doing on these steep drops when a wave reared up. I paddled hard for it and though I was really late, I decided to go for it. I felt myself make an "Oh $%&*!" face. I thought I was going to pearl and get catapulted but I somehow made it.
The waves worsened a bit and the surf camp killers were out, snagging just about everything. A couple of kids whose voices haven't dropped where KILLING it!
Tomorrow morning I will head up there again and my goal is to stall for barrels upon takeoff. If I'm too late on the drop, I will immediately go for a reo. Stay tuned!
Wildlife Report: I saw a sting ray when I looked down and about a minute later, after dodging a couple of waves, I saw two of them ondulating together. I'd never seen two of them together before.
No comments:
Post a Comment