Today I woke up around 5:30. I walked out and felt a slight breeze coming out of the south. I briefly considered surfing Scripps as it's protected from the winds but I decided against it, as the swell was too steep a south. I got right on the road, parking my car just south of Tyson Street at 6:05 after a brief surf check. One guy out! It's amazing how much lazier the surfers are up in Oceanside.
The current was still in effect, though it was more touch-and-go leading me to believe that the swell I'd been enjoying was on its way down. There was a slight texture bump from the S wind but not too bad. There were some nice peaks coming down. If you looked south you could see a big line of swell breaking (sometimes barreling) and sectioning off several times. If you picked the right spot, or if the current happened to place you there, you could get some sick barrels!
Sticking to my goal from yesterday, I caught a steep one and did a mid-face speed check snap. The lip hit me in the head, but no tunnel vision, so NO BARREL! I got knocked down on the way out.
The next wave I caught was also steep. I dropped in somewhat straight and saw a BIG shoulder. I went up and instead of pumping or doing a cut down to harness all of the waves power and turn it into speed, I went for the snap. The push and the wall were there, but I leaned too far back and did what was an ugly vertical layback snap (I'm sure it was uglier from the beach). I got trounced underwater for my mistake and paddled back out.
I caught another wave and had too much weight on my front foot. As this is a new weighting for me, I wasn't used to the speed and I flew past the bashing section. I let out an audible "Grrr!".
The current was taking me far away from the wave zone, so I caught one in and jogged up past the BRAND new twinhomes to paddle back into the juice.
I caught yet another wave and found my footing, doing a nice squat snap, recovering and riding off clean. I did an on-the-face slash and buried the rail, but I couldn't recover.
Then I caught a wave and noticed the rip was creating a small wave that follows the initial peak, with the similar size wave (to the one I caught in this instance) was behind the small wave. I pumped up and down the small wave and did a nice half-rotation slide. I burned all my speed and didn't make it out though. I'd set out to do a cut-back on this wave and I could've pulled it off with a tight-enough arc (to make up for the smaller wave I was on) and hopefully come back to hit the bigger wave I caught but it was not to be! I need to rotate my shoulders and neck and look where I go rather than puss out and just go for a move I've done enough times.
I caught a big one and went for my famous high-speed reo and of course missed. My leash rope knots gave out and I swam in for my board. I paddled out one last time but didn't catch anything decent. The tide had come up, so that was probably to blame.
No comments:
Post a Comment