Yesterday evening we met some friends at the beachfront house they manage. The surf looked abysmal. I had low hopes for this swell.
This morning while walking to the beach we happened upon a guy I've surfed with and he said it was fun yesterday around noon.
I decided to paddle out at a similar tide to try my luck today.
I slathered on the 50spf sunscreen because I would be out in the dreaded 10-2 baking window and took the walk.
I saw a party of three in the parking lot and asked them their thoughts on the conditions. They said it was fine, but a little backwashy.
Sure enough, I walk out and there is the backwash along with no one out at Colorado proper. I paddle out there with the understanding I'd be getting swept out towards Wyoming.
I reminded myself to try a foam climb when waves would inevitably close out on me.
My first wave of note was a fast left. I got enough of an angle on it that I could pump. I came down off that and came up for a risky second pump. I was flying down the line aching to blow any section that had the guts to present itself to me but nothing came and I got batted off my board.
I had a similar wave but this one had a nice steep section for an off-the-lip. I rose up and smacked it well and while completing the turn the backwash hit and down I went.
I caught a right and smacked it nicely, but got hung up on the lip. For whatever reason I jumped off after about a second-and-a-half when I probably would've made albeit for not much of a reward.
I then caught my best wave of the day. It was another right. I made it down, bottom turned, then averted course for a quick pump. I bottom turned again then saw a section and I immediately recalled one of my first waves from July of 2012 There was a small section in front of the wave and just at the right time I obliterated it in a really tight arc as its big brother pushed from behind. I had so much speed and the wave closed out. I went for a foam climb and got really high but with no plan and fins releasing into the drink I went.
This was definitely the best turn I've done since 2014 (but then I took two long breaks between then and 2017)!
I was over getting baked in the sun and when the waves went quiet for twenty minutes I bailed.
This morning while walking to the beach we happened upon a guy I've surfed with and he said it was fun yesterday around noon.
I decided to paddle out at a similar tide to try my luck today.
I slathered on the 50spf sunscreen because I would be out in the dreaded 10-2 baking window and took the walk.
I saw a party of three in the parking lot and asked them their thoughts on the conditions. They said it was fine, but a little backwashy.
Sure enough, I walk out and there is the backwash along with no one out at Colorado proper. I paddle out there with the understanding I'd be getting swept out towards Wyoming.
I reminded myself to try a foam climb when waves would inevitably close out on me.
My first wave of note was a fast left. I got enough of an angle on it that I could pump. I came down off that and came up for a risky second pump. I was flying down the line aching to blow any section that had the guts to present itself to me but nothing came and I got batted off my board.
I had a similar wave but this one had a nice steep section for an off-the-lip. I rose up and smacked it well and while completing the turn the backwash hit and down I went.
I caught a right and smacked it nicely, but got hung up on the lip. For whatever reason I jumped off after about a second-and-a-half when I probably would've made albeit for not much of a reward.
I then caught my best wave of the day. It was another right. I made it down, bottom turned, then averted course for a quick pump. I bottom turned again then saw a section and I immediately recalled one of my first waves from July of 2012 There was a small section in front of the wave and just at the right time I obliterated it in a really tight arc as its big brother pushed from behind. I had so much speed and the wave closed out. I went for a foam climb and got really high but with no plan and fins releasing into the drink I went.
This was definitely the best turn I've done since 2014 (but then I took two long breaks between then and 2017)!
I was over getting baked in the sun and when the waves went quiet for twenty minutes I bailed.
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