Our minivan's battery went out and I had to take our little car, which meant my little board.
I met my newest surf bro Ben and we headed down. The tide was amazingly low. There were tidepools there that I'd never seen and I've surfed Beacon's off and on since at least 2001.
I was supposed to be giving Ben pointers on surfing, but we made it out together but we almost immediately got separated. I caught two waves in quick succession. The left was bigger, I dropped in and felt the skatey feel of the two-finned Tomo. The wave closed out but I was amped that I'd gotten up on it successfully for the first time this decade.
I caught a right and I took a little longer to get up on that, but I did and did a half-turn.
That was the extent of my fun out there.
The sun was out, beautiful weather, decent-sized waves, but it was meh to me. Sad to say but I think my surfing days are over. Having gotten surgery on my ears doesn't help things, and the ol' depression sure as hell has hurt me in just about every way possible.
Epilogue: End of another era, the Tomo was sold eighteen days later
