I kept asking my eldest when she was going to start surfing. She said when she turned eight.
We went down to Beacons she was so excited, especially to tell everyone that she can surf.
We did some practice pop-ups on the beach and headed out thar.
The waves were tiny but the whitewater had some push to it. She got freaked out. I coaxed her to me then tried to put her on the board prone. She was kicking and squealing so I stopped. She watched me catch a wave on a longboard and was nonplussed.
In we went.
That wave was dedicated to my best buddy Chucho, with whom we were so unfairly forced to part ways one hundred days ago today.
