My wife had cousins in town from Arizona who wanted to surf. I pushed them into maybe ten waves total before they were over it and then I had a go.
I hadn't surfed in eight months and my surf mojo had been at rock bottom.
Putting my head in the cold water really hurt my head. I could feel my ears ache hard and this pain would progress into the ear canals. So ear plugs do help as they cut this pain by about half, adding some discomfort in the old ear holes.
I semi-pumped on a left, which eventually petered out.
I paddled out again and bailed on a close-out which took the log with it.
Lastly, I caught a nice one late and over-committed on the drop, but made it. I turned hard to make up for it. I figured I'd eat as I typically do when bottom-turning a log but it was a nice feeling as I scooted ahead to the green water. Unfortunately I couldn't top turn for squat and ate it.
I may shell out for the latest generation of plugs if I feel like trying again, but my surf mojo is vying for matching an all-time bottom. I have a lot of stuff swirling around in my head and surfing is no longer the priority and stress reliever it once was.
I hadn't surfed in eight months and my surf mojo had been at rock bottom.
Putting my head in the cold water really hurt my head. I could feel my ears ache hard and this pain would progress into the ear canals. So ear plugs do help as they cut this pain by about half, adding some discomfort in the old ear holes.
I semi-pumped on a left, which eventually petered out.
I paddled out again and bailed on a close-out which took the log with it.
Lastly, I caught a nice one late and over-committed on the drop, but made it. I turned hard to make up for it. I figured I'd eat as I typically do when bottom-turning a log but it was a nice feeling as I scooted ahead to the green water. Unfortunately I couldn't top turn for squat and ate it.
I may shell out for the latest generation of plugs if I feel like trying again, but my surf mojo is vying for matching an all-time bottom. I have a lot of stuff swirling around in my head and surfing is no longer the priority and stress reliever it once was.
