After witnessing some relative bombs detonating at Outside Pangas yesterday I made plans to paddle out this morning.
It wasn't a great situation. You could sit outside and wait for the bigger ones which had too-fat walls or you could get the inside ones which were a little bit better, but you would get cleaned up by the whitewash.
I took a right late and bit it right away, getting bounced off when my fins hit.
The highlight of the session was a left I caught late. I put my weight on to my fins and waited until it was safe, then sped towards the lazy wall. I did a top turn of sorts then kicked out.
The water was noticeably warmer and I look forward to shedding my wetsuit jacket soon.
It wasn't a great situation. You could sit outside and wait for the bigger ones which had too-fat walls or you could get the inside ones which were a little bit better, but you would get cleaned up by the whitewash.
I took a right late and bit it right away, getting bounced off when my fins hit.
The highlight of the session was a left I caught late. I put my weight on to my fins and waited until it was safe, then sped towards the lazy wall. I did a top turn of sorts then kicked out.
The water was noticeably warmer and I look forward to shedding my wetsuit jacket soon.
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