I woke up just after 4:30 this morning but remembered my plan to paddle out as close to first light as possible. I geared up and headed down the steps. Before I even hit the first clearing for the golf course a truck slowed down and my new buddy Hayden gave me a ride.
I got out once at our destination and waited for him to put on his neoprene jacket. He smiled and said I didn't have to wait for him. So I went and checked it and lo and behold there were closeouts to be had. But once in a while a nice A-frame would detonate. The waves were definitely overhead and there was no one out. I did some neck and arm stretches to take the strain out from last night's session
I made it out unscathed despite the relative bombs coming through. The swell was seemingly still building. It took me forever to catch my first wave and frustration set in. Eventually, my wave came and the drop was probably the most gorgeous of any wave I've ridden since 2014. With that good news comes the bad news: There was no wall, nothing, to follow it. It had shot its wall wad on the initial peak.
My final two waves were similar, though the second was a really critical drop. I got hung up on the lip as a gust of wind further levitated me. I thought I was going down but I stuck it but unfortunately there was no reward to be had.
My teeth chattering, my paddling muscles bitching, I decided to go in. Hopefully the water will warm up before it gets too crowded to surf comfortably...
I got out once at our destination and waited for him to put on his neoprene jacket. He smiled and said I didn't have to wait for him. So I went and checked it and lo and behold there were closeouts to be had. But once in a while a nice A-frame would detonate. The waves were definitely overhead and there was no one out. I did some neck and arm stretches to take the strain out from last night's session
I made it out unscathed despite the relative bombs coming through. The swell was seemingly still building. It took me forever to catch my first wave and frustration set in. Eventually, my wave came and the drop was probably the most gorgeous of any wave I've ridden since 2014. With that good news comes the bad news: There was no wall, nothing, to follow it. It had shot its wall wad on the initial peak.
My final two waves were similar, though the second was a really critical drop. I got hung up on the lip as a gust of wind further levitated me. I thought I was going down but I stuck it but unfortunately there was no reward to be had.
My teeth chattering, my paddling muscles bitching, I decided to go in. Hopefully the water will warm up before it gets too crowded to surf comfortably...
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