The previous evening we watched the sunset from in front of Colorado and the waves were opening up, meaning less than eighty percent were hopeless closeouts/section-offs!
I made plans to surf there the next morning but the swell dropped and it wasn't even worth the short wade-out. I turned my eyes towards El Salvador and walked. I figured there would be something more enticing at Panga Drops.
While I saw waves break they were lazy and wind-whipped. I'd made the mistake of putting on my vest jacket at Colorado so I was sweating. I knew if I took off the jacket I wouldn't paddle out so I trudged on and looked forward to being cold.
The water was so damn cold. I never thought the water in Central America could dip into the 60s. But it was frigid and those who tuned into my post-sesh cam show know I am telling the truth.
I caught two waves, both drops with nowhere to go. I got blown off the back on both of them, despite being on my practically rocker-less board.
I'm going to wait until the swell kicks back up, which should be Monday evening, before I attempt another paddle-out. I will say I felt very refreshed after being reanimated in the shower.
I made plans to surf there the next morning but the swell dropped and it wasn't even worth the short wade-out. I turned my eyes towards El Salvador and walked. I figured there would be something more enticing at Panga Drops.
While I saw waves break they were lazy and wind-whipped. I'd made the mistake of putting on my vest jacket at Colorado so I was sweating. I knew if I took off the jacket I wouldn't paddle out so I trudged on and looked forward to being cold.
The water was so damn cold. I never thought the water in Central America could dip into the 60s. But it was frigid and those who tuned into my post-sesh cam show know I am telling the truth.
I caught two waves, both drops with nowhere to go. I got blown off the back on both of them, despite being on my practically rocker-less board.
I'm going to wait until the swell kicks back up, which should be Monday evening, before I attempt another paddle-out. I will say I felt very refreshed after being reanimated in the shower.
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