The girls wanted to go to the beach so I decided to surf while they did their thing.
I couldn't decide which board to grab and eventually opted for the 5'10" with more volume and nose rocker. The swell had peaked but it would be a slow descent into its runts.
I paddled out through the sandspit, again surprised at how quickly I got out and this time with even dryer hair than last time.
The tide was dropping, probably about a third of the way down to its low. The waves were a little bit steeper as a result.
On my first wave, I faded hard to my backside. My leash was under my back foot but by the time I turned up the wave there was little there.
I got another wave and I should have gone for a roundhouse cutback but did just a cutback into the whitewater without facing it.
When I caught my first right I was a bit worried that the crosschop (the wind blows directly into the rights) would hamper my bottom turn and sure enough, I bobbled and couldn't recover after railing through it.
I got a second chance at a right and it was foamier due to the first wave of the set breaking before it. I managed to bottom turn and laid into a nice turn at the top of the wave. I know I was at the top because I got blown off the back by the wind.
I decided to make my way in as it was almost our little one's nap time. I managed to get a look at a semi-closeout and had fun doing a pump at the top of the wave and screaming parallel to the closeout section. I keep forgetting to try foam climbs...
I couldn't decide which board to grab and eventually opted for the 5'10" with more volume and nose rocker. The swell had peaked but it would be a slow descent into its runts.
I paddled out through the sandspit, again surprised at how quickly I got out and this time with even dryer hair than last time.
The tide was dropping, probably about a third of the way down to its low. The waves were a little bit steeper as a result.
On my first wave, I faded hard to my backside. My leash was under my back foot but by the time I turned up the wave there was little there.
I got another wave and I should have gone for a roundhouse cutback but did just a cutback into the whitewater without facing it.
When I caught my first right I was a bit worried that the crosschop (the wind blows directly into the rights) would hamper my bottom turn and sure enough, I bobbled and couldn't recover after railing through it.
I got a second chance at a right and it was foamier due to the first wave of the set breaking before it. I managed to bottom turn and laid into a nice turn at the top of the wave. I know I was at the top because I got blown off the back by the wind.
I decided to make my way in as it was almost our little one's nap time. I managed to get a look at a semi-closeout and had fun doing a pump at the top of the wave and screaming parallel to the closeout section. I keep forgetting to try foam climbs...
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