The swell was supposed to be increasing but unfortunately, the tide was as well. I realized the backwash would be in play and it certainly was. Waves would come and be almost inevitably be hit by backwash. The faces were blocky and looked like windwhipped stairs.
The head count at PC proper made it unpalatable to me. Wyoming was a little more spread out.
My first wave was within ten seconds of perching. It offered nothing but a drop.
I paid for my quick wave by waiting twenty minutes for my next one. I dropped down, got a quick pump in, then rose up and smacked an off-the-lip. I heard a satisfying THWACK and rode away
smoothly.
No other waves of note came and in I went.
The head count at PC proper made it unpalatable to me. Wyoming was a little more spread out.
My first wave was within ten seconds of perching. It offered nothing but a drop.
I paid for my quick wave by waiting twenty minutes for my next one. I dropped down, got a quick pump in, then rose up and smacked an off-the-lip. I heard a satisfying THWACK and rode away
smoothly.
No comments:
Post a Comment