Oof it looked bad out there. The wind was whipping it and the surface of the sea reflected that.
I hemmed and hawed as to whether to paddle out at Wyoming. I once again, like yesterday, started walking towards Panga Drops, having written off the beachbreak.
A few corners came through. They weren't anything remotely special, but compared to the barrage of constant closeouts their siren song was strong.
I had five or six pump-to-oblivion waves sprinkled throughout the following more noteworthy waves:
I caught a left and it had the slightest of corners. I pumped once, then rose off the bottom and smacked the lip decisively and stomped it.
My favorite wave of the day was a right. I thought it was going to close out because that seemed to be today's wave m.o. It did, but I rose up right out of my drop and levitated onto the lip. I was pretty behind the lip itself and I felt my tail dragging turning my nose slightly to the open ocean. I threw my weight over my frontside rail and stomped that, absolutely shocked I'd pulled it.
I saw a local pro drop in late on a right that just started barreling. I duckdove out of his way and two seconds later I saw him do an aborted alley-oop. He was the most amped I'd ever seen anyone down here and for good reason.
I thought I had to try to score one of those. I paddled to where he'd caught it, hoping for another pulse from the same swell direction. Twenty minutes later, still nothing. I eventually caught one half the size of the one he'd caught and tucked into my first pigdog stance in forty-four months. I got more foam on the head than lip, and I eventually gave up.
I was amped on the way I'd surfed considering the conditions and am enjoying the confidence boost. I feel as though I'm surfing better than when I stopped in August of 2014.
I hemmed and hawed as to whether to paddle out at Wyoming. I once again, like yesterday, started walking towards Panga Drops, having written off the beachbreak.
A few corners came through. They weren't anything remotely special, but compared to the barrage of constant closeouts their siren song was strong.
I had five or six pump-to-oblivion waves sprinkled throughout the following more noteworthy waves:
I caught a left and it had the slightest of corners. I pumped once, then rose off the bottom and smacked the lip decisively and stomped it.
My favorite wave of the day was a right. I thought it was going to close out because that seemed to be today's wave m.o. It did, but I rose up right out of my drop and levitated onto the lip. I was pretty behind the lip itself and I felt my tail dragging turning my nose slightly to the open ocean. I threw my weight over my frontside rail and stomped that, absolutely shocked I'd pulled it.
I saw a local pro drop in late on a right that just started barreling. I duckdove out of his way and two seconds later I saw him do an aborted alley-oop. He was the most amped I'd ever seen anyone down here and for good reason.
I thought I had to try to score one of those. I paddled to where he'd caught it, hoping for another pulse from the same swell direction. Twenty minutes later, still nothing. I eventually caught one half the size of the one he'd caught and tucked into my first pigdog stance in forty-four months. I got more foam on the head than lip, and I eventually gave up.
I was amped on the way I'd surfed considering the conditions and am enjoying the confidence boost. I feel as though I'm surfing better than when I stopped in August of 2014.
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