I made the fateful decision to go to Rivas (90 minute round trip) to stock up on milk, Fanta, and other goodies for my family and when I got back I checked the pics of what I missed and seemed pretty close to epic. There were still plenty of closeouts but the swell direction was a little more southern, which apparently seems to help open up some sections.
By the time I made it out there, the backwash was in play and it pretty much ruined the session.
I had a bitch of a time catching my first wave. But before I did so I saw one of the sickest barrel rides I've ever seen in person. He caught it, swooped down, snapstalled then pumped as the lip went over him, and he pumped a couple more times until I lost sight of him. I craned my neck and saw him kick out.
So of course I had to go over there and try to get mine. I spoke to him about it later and he couldn't believe he threaded the backwash window. He also told me it had been amazing right around noon.
My first wave was smaller than his. I also swooped and snapstalled, though I had to crouch more to get into the barrel. Just as everything was lining up and I was admiring what was imminently to be a barrel view (as well as the view down the line of the wave lining up seemingly perfectly) the backwash hit and the lip hit me right in the head. Gone.
A lot of paddling back and forth and I got into my second wave. It was a really late drop and I barely got to my feet in time. Unfortunately, an older guy on a bigger board dropped in on me. Luckily he ate it on the takeoff so there was no collision of bodies. I was pretty pissed and remember thinking, "Bitch move" as I watched his board waggle towards me in the whitewash.
I kicked my board in front of me and went under. He gave me the wave, then again as I got closer. He apologized sincerely and I was proud of how well I handled it. I said, "Don't worry about it man". He said, "I'm really really sorry". I replied, "It's all good, no worries!".
I would have been right to let him have it and I sure felt like it when still on the wave (especially considering how long I'd waited for it).
I'm going to take a break from typing this as I may have sprained my wrist patting myself on the shoulder.
I got back to the main peak and happened to spot a big wave. The backwash hit it and I thought that would cause it to eviscerate me. I stared at it as it came down and happened to get J U S T under it. The guy eight or so feet behind me who was also sprint-paddling got mauled.
I caught another late one on which I thought about pulling back but I went for glory with no payoff. I unfortunately had too much weight on my back foot and paid the price for this mistake by getting clobbered above and under the water.
On my next one, a left, I put my weight way forward but there was no golden section at the end of the ride, just exploding whitewater which took me down and out.
My last wave was another closeout and this time I put too much weight on my heels and ate it, so at least I'm varying my mistakes.
By the time I made it out there, the backwash was in play and it pretty much ruined the session.
I had a bitch of a time catching my first wave. But before I did so I saw one of the sickest barrel rides I've ever seen in person. He caught it, swooped down, snapstalled then pumped as the lip went over him, and he pumped a couple more times until I lost sight of him. I craned my neck and saw him kick out.
So of course I had to go over there and try to get mine. I spoke to him about it later and he couldn't believe he threaded the backwash window. He also told me it had been amazing right around noon.
My first wave was smaller than his. I also swooped and snapstalled, though I had to crouch more to get into the barrel. Just as everything was lining up and I was admiring what was imminently to be a barrel view (as well as the view down the line of the wave lining up seemingly perfectly) the backwash hit and the lip hit me right in the head. Gone.
A lot of paddling back and forth and I got into my second wave. It was a really late drop and I barely got to my feet in time. Unfortunately, an older guy on a bigger board dropped in on me. Luckily he ate it on the takeoff so there was no collision of bodies. I was pretty pissed and remember thinking, "Bitch move" as I watched his board waggle towards me in the whitewash.
I kicked my board in front of me and went under. He gave me the wave, then again as I got closer. He apologized sincerely and I was proud of how well I handled it. I said, "Don't worry about it man". He said, "I'm really really sorry". I replied, "It's all good, no worries!".
I would have been right to let him have it and I sure felt like it when still on the wave (especially considering how long I'd waited for it).
I'm going to take a break from typing this as I may have sprained my wrist patting myself on the shoulder.
I got back to the main peak and happened to spot a big wave. The backwash hit it and I thought that would cause it to eviscerate me. I stared at it as it came down and happened to get J U S T under it. The guy eight or so feet behind me who was also sprint-paddling got mauled.
I caught another late one on which I thought about pulling back but I went for glory with no payoff. I unfortunately had too much weight on my back foot and paid the price for this mistake by getting clobbered above and under the water.
On my next one, a left, I put my weight way forward but there was no golden section at the end of the ride, just exploding whitewater which took me down and out.
My last wave was another closeout and this time I put too much weight on my heels and ate it, so at least I'm varying my mistakes.
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