The paddle-out was less vicious than I expected and I perched about forty yards inside of the guys on big foam.
I caught a bunch of waves and even managed TWO (2) maneuvers on one. It was a nice though fat left and I did cutback and slash on it before it petered out on me.
The highlight was a late drop I took on a left. The thing jacked up and sectioned off in front of me and I had to pump gingerly, almost in the flats, as the avalanche bore down on me. I did a top turn and got hung up unfortunately.
I had another big left and when I went for a floater I got a weightless puckering sensation. The wind slammed on and blew me out the back. I laughed in relief underwater.
I caught a bunch of waves and even managed TWO (2) maneuvers on one. It was a nice though fat left and I did cutback and slash on it before it petered out on me.
The highlight was a late drop I took on a left. The thing jacked up and sectioned off in front of me and I had to pump gingerly, almost in the flats, as the avalanche bore down on me. I did a top turn and got hung up unfortunately.
I had another big left and when I went for a floater I got a weightless puckering sensation. The wind slammed on and blew me out the back. I laughed in relief underwater.
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