I checked Pillbox but it was unsurfable. The place seems to be losing its luster...
I decided to venture up past my place to check D. It looked small, but relatively clean. There was a pack on it, which I presumed to be due to Surf PE taking place. I suited up and walked down to the sand. I wasn't thrilled at the prospect of sitting in a pack and dealing with the missed waves due to there being someone on them already. I paddled out a bit north to sow a sweet little left I'd spied.
My first two waves were nearly identical. Small, sucky, but hollow! I got in to the first one but couldn't contort my body small enough to get a view. The footage showed me getting clipped in the head and bailing. The second one let me in a bit better, but still nothing.
While paddling back out, I saw a water photog in the water. WHAT....!????!!!! Must be a friend of one of the kids' dads or something.
I caught a left on which I got one solid pump in, floated, then successfully ollied off. My mistake on it was not using my speed to try for a foam climb at the end.
I caught and innumerable amount of waves that quickly closed out. I decided to grit my teeth and jump into the pack.
I caught a right, which started fizzling after my initial pop-up/pump move. I turned in for a cutty, but was left hanging by the lack of push.
I caught a left on which I pumped. I debated hitting the initial section, but passed. Smart move! I half-pumped up the face and was almost left behind. I stomped on my front foot to stay in the pocket. It was iffy, but I made it back down. I bottom-turned, smacked it, and was hung up enough that it turned into an off-the lip. I somehow pulled it and kicked out. The footy, of course, shows it less impressively than what I felt whilst on the wave. Unfortunately, I deleted it and it appears to be gone forever. Not a major loss though...
I paddled in after this last wave, as the south wind came to pay us another visit.
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