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Sunday, June 17, 2012

6.13.2012 Small but Punchy D Street

I checked Pillbox but it was unsurfable.  The place seems to be losing its luster...

I decided to venture up past my place to check D.  It looked small, but relatively clean.  There was a pack on it, which I presumed to be due to Surf PE taking place.  I suited up and walked down to the sand.  I wasn't thrilled at the prospect of sitting in a pack and dealing with the missed waves due to there being someone on them already.  I paddled out a bit north to sow a sweet little left I'd spied.

My first two waves were nearly identical.  Small, sucky, but hollow!  I got in to the first one but couldn't contort my body small enough to get a view.  The footage showed me getting clipped in the head and bailing.  The second one let me in a bit better, but still nothing.

While paddling back out, I saw a water photog in the water. WHAT....!????!!!!  Must be a friend of one of the kids' dads or something.

I caught a left on which I got one solid pump in, floated, then successfully ollied off.  My mistake on it was not using my speed to try for a foam climb at the end.

I caught and innumerable amount of waves that quickly closed out.  I decided to grit my teeth and jump into the pack. 

I caught a right, which started fizzling after my initial pop-up/pump move. I turned in for a cutty, but was left hanging by the lack of push.

I caught a left on which I pumped.  I debated hitting the initial section, but passed.  Smart move! I half-pumped up the face and was almost left behind.  I stomped on my front foot to stay in the pocket.  It was iffy, but I made it back down.  I bottom-turned, smacked it, and was hung up enough that it turned into an off-the lip.  I somehow pulled it and kicked out.  The footy, of course, shows it less impressively than what I felt whilst on the wave.  Unfortunately, I deleted it and it appears to be gone forever.  Not a major loss though...

I paddled in after this last wave, as the south wind came to pay us another visit.

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