I was hoping to get wet so as to keep preparing the skin around my rib cage for the onslaught of friction it will experience when it's finally reunited with my first DHD and favorite board of all time. They will again be together in less than sixty hours as of this writing! Congratulations to them both.
I checked George's, which showed one good wave during my run on the PCH, on the way to Pillbox. It slowed me down and made me contemplate pulling over, but I declined to do so. Pillbox looked terrible, so I shot back up to George's, which now showed absolutely nothing but closeouts. I was trying to merge off of PCH on Birmingham from the left lane, but the line of cars impeded me from doing so. I pressed on, and thought about checking D Street, but then I thought about the summer parking situation and decided to check Stonesteps.
Upon doing so, I saw a beautiful left peel down the line and detonate into a nasty closeout on the inside. I'm out thar!
I had my DHD with me this time and was pleased with my board choice. As I bounded down the stairs, I noticed no other waves like the gem I'd seen earlier. No matter. I'll sit where I saw it and wait.
My first wave ended up being a right and I caught it late. It had a lot of chop on it. I stood up and saw a guy right in my trajectory. I would have to bottom turn HARD to not hit him. I did so, but the wave closed out. It appeared a collision was imminent. I put both hands on the rails and yanked hard away from him. After a few seconds of getting jostled around by the wash, I came up with hands still on rails and looked where I thought he might be. He was two feet away from me. I hooted and we both laughed.
A few minutes later I caught a left with chop on it, but it appeared the chop was going away from me, which makes for a smoother ride with less chattering. I pumped and did my classic, WAY-too-critical-for-the-section and lean-WAY-too-far back, snap. I won't spoil the surprise as to how this ride concluded.
Finally, a set wave nugget came through but there was a guy in great position for it outside of me. He definitely had it and I said, "NIIIIICE!!!" to help him on his way. He craned his neck to look at and... he let it go to waste. WHAAAAAAAAT?!?!? It would have been the wave of the day.
The wind picked up even harder and I got cold, so I bailed.
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