First, I want to clear up that, despite what your mind led you to believe while reading the title of this entry, this post is ONLY about surfing.
Since my trip is imminent, I figured I would do it right this time and start training my rib skin by coarsening it. When you are not used to surfing in your trunks, you can develop a nasty belly rash that really puts a damper on sessions.
With the above in mind, I decided to paddle out and TRUNK it, for the first time since September (I think). I decided there was no need to drive far since it wasn't going to be mindblowingly good anywhere with the onshores.
I was originally going to go to Pipes but it always seems like the crowd-to-quality ratio is so high there. I opted to go left at the kook. Cardiff Reef looked slow and crowded, so I was over that. I saw a sick set of waves break which didn't all close out at once. I found a spot and pulled in.
Trunking it makes surfing a lot less of a hassle. Just grab the board and go. I had elected to take Wanda, my fish, because it floats me better and I would last longer in the still-a-bit-cold water.
Once I got into mid-thigh deep water, I dove in to the water. BRRR! But now I was pretty much acclimated.
The paddle-out was uneventful and I was happy to see I would have no competition for waves.
It took me some time to catch my first wave, but it was a dooz of a right on which I pumped forever. I did something that made my weighting not vibe with the board (one of those would-work-on-my-other-board situations). I ended up on my ass with my feet on the board but could not recover.
Two dudes paddled out RIGHT by me and I was a little bummed, but I worked through it thanks to my affirmations and faith in Jesus (not really). They weren't catching much on their Cinderella slippers of boards, but one of them did cost me a couple of waves.
I saw a dark line towards the horizon and scratched hard towards it. It was a big mofo of a wave, maybe head-high, but appeared to be bigger because it looked so... angry. I was a little concerned that I'd caught it too late without the rocker on my board to compensate, but I had only one small skip of the fins before they engaged. I cut down, then bottom turned hard, pushing my luck with those small fins and absolutely SMASHED it. It didn't really matter, as there was no way I was going to pull it with the way I'd set it up.
I caught a left and did a little floater, but that was about it.
I caught another right and did a face slash, wave died.
I started to get chilly after about an hour and went in.
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