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Saturday, June 23, 2012

6.21.12 FUN (waves) D St w/ Missed-It Mike and Trevor

I'd called Mike the night before to tell him we should def surf D the next day. The forecasts were saying it would be 2-3', but they were wrong. 

The waves were about head-high on the sets and it looked like A- D Street.  I've seen D break better than this maybe a half-dozen times, and I've been surfing there for almost fifteen years!

The other side of the equation, though, is the crowd factor.  Word got out that yesterday was pretty good.  School was out.  The water is getting warmer.  I will not use a tired cliché here so let's just say it was a "flawless culmination of a low-pressure system" of factors to make for a big crowd.

Mike and I paddled out without incident.  There were a lot of people out, and catching the quality waves to ourselves was a challenge.

On my first wave, I'd made up my mind to go left, but when that looked less than appetizing, I swung around to the right.  That didn't have much juice either.  I swung around to the right but faded upon hitting the wash.

I caught a left which quickly closed out.  I pulled out through the back.

Another left came which did about the same thing.  I kicked my board up over the lip and sank down into the trough.

Less than two minutes later, I caught a right which wasn't really worth catching.  It faded quickly and I tumbled ass-first out the back.

Then, I four-paddle caught a short, but lined-up left on which I did a weak bonk:

One wave I wish I'd been able to get footy of was a set wave I caught.  I did a mini set-up snap, but I bogged a little at the top of the wave.  I put too much pressure on my front foot and my fins slid out the wrong way (towards the beach).  I flopped over on to my shoulder and thought I'd injured it.  It hurt the rest of the day but am officially fine as of this writing.

The highlight of the session wasn't a ride I got, which is unfortunate on such a good day.  Trevor was lined up deep and caught a reform off the bombie.  As he was paddling furiously for it, I started yelling, "Hey bro, you going?".  The whitewash hit him hard and he was fighting to stand up and I yelled again, this time, "Hey bro, you got it?"  Even Trevor thought it was funny.

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