This was another sales job. I REALLY had to talk myself into paddling out. I checked Buc Beach through Harbor and found little inspiration. It wasn't a question of where I was going to surf, but more, where I was going to sit. Should I aim for a place where I could be alone with my thoughts? Or perhaps one with a beautiful paisaje?
I decided to go out at Buc Beach and scored an amazing parking spot next to the handicapped parking. BOOM BABY!
There were about six guys surfing straight out and about four a good thirty yards south. I opted to sit in between them.
My first wave reminded me of the night I became a man: a pump-fest that ended disappointingly (just kidding ladies, call me). The wave faded and so did my hopes of a fun finish to the wave.
I did a switch crab-grab and got a sick view of the barrel as it closed out nearly ten yards in front of me.
I caught another left and got some speed before it too fizzled on me.
Another left arrived and I bottom-turned around the initial section and laid into a snap. I almost recovered but received some incoherent positive lip from a loc. When I came up, he asked if it was a GoPro on my board and I replied affirmatively. He replied, "SICK!".
Three more dudes paddled out close to me and I was over it.
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