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Friday, August 31, 2012

8.30.12 Back from a LOOOONG Dry Nap, I hit up S. Jetty in Oside

Yes, the formatting on the above pic blows, but you get the "picture"? (PTHTHTHTHPHTHPH AHAHAH!)

The above pic is the reason I hadn't been surfing.  The surf had been dismal.

Rumors of a month-end swell have been swirling around the last ten days, which is interesting as tomorrow is the anniversary of the biggest S swell we've had in years.

The upside of my not surfing for SIXTEEN days? I fell back in love with skimboarding.  Two days in a row, I went twice, per day.  My 32-year-old joints begged for mercy, mostly my right hip.  My left hammy screamed out in pain with every run-drop-slide.  I decided it was time to shift back towards surfing.

I shot up to Oside and didn't find anything remotely tantalizing along the Oside corridor.  I finally settled on S. Jetty after ALMOST bailing.  I hadn't surfed in so long that it was a novelty to paddle out.  I wanted to see if I was out of paddling shape, but didn't notice any aches on my paddle-out.

It was relatively crowded considering the 2' waves.  I caught several waves where I pumped around the first section and was met with a fade.

There was one wave where I bottom-turned as the section spilled over and was in great shape to get a smack.  I was met with a section that was extremely weak, but I put some oomph into it and threw the tiniest bit of spray.  I barely had enough speed to go back down the wave and I did so with my face toward the sky; my face in a wide smile, appreciating my effort-to-result ratio.

I caught another noteworthy left where I was going to do a roundhouse cutty.  Once I'd spun my head, shoulders and torso I realize it wasn't wise, but I was able to slide the tail out oh-so-gingerly. NICE!

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