HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO EDDIESURFS.COM, ONE YEAR OLD TODAY!
Please send monetary donations to eddiesurfsATgmail.com. No well wishes. No flowers. Just money.
I checked Oceanside, from Buc Beach to Harbor and could not talk myself into paddling out. I dejectedly headed back to the freeway. The traffic was a bummer, but it resulted in my having enough time to realize I could check D Street on the way home.
I parked at C Street and saw a faraway left reeling south of D. I debated whether to suit up, but ended up grabbing my board and paddling out in just my trunks.
I can't remember the last time I trunked it in the morning in California.
I caught a right which had very little slope to it, but the reason I went for it is because I saw there was a small wave in front of it, leading to the epic acceleration that is the double-up. I went up for a late hit and did so, but I turned too late and ended up just presenting the board for the wave to smack, resulting in an ineffectual maneuver.
My next wave was a steep hollow left. I switch crab-grabbed and apparently got gnarled out as I closed my eyes. The impact on my left knee led me to believe I airdropped. I let my head hang down so as not to get clipped and open my eyes just in time to get ANNIHILATED! My right shoulder slammed into the sand, but there was no lingering pain or damage, thankfully. This is definitely the frontrunner for BAIL OF THE MONTH!!!
I caught a right way too late and kind of faded off the back...
I caught a second right and was able to hit it well. Unfortunately, I didn't take into account the wave's lack of juice and faded off the back again.
A quick closeout left came my way and I pumped quickly before jumping over it.
A nice right came my way, but there was a guy somewhat near my soon trajectory. I turned sharply, almost into a cutty, then bailed into the wave. No surfers were injured.
My teeth began to do their chatter dance and I decided to pack it in.
No comments:
Post a Comment