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Saturday, May 12, 2012

5.9.2012 Peaky D Street w/ Missed-It Mike!!!

WOW! It had been more than two months since the last time I surfed with someone.  I'd seen a left that had "left" (*SNORT*) me salivating on Coastal Push and I had made up my mind that I would at least give it a thorough check.

The waves looked a bit sloppy and stormy.  Because of the direction of the swell, the majority of the SSW swell was passing us by.  I was a bit tired of driving up to Oside and surfing alone.  There was enough juice to entice both Mike and me to paddle out.  Mike was indifferent as usual, but I was able go goad him out thar.

We spent the majority of in-between wave time on our imitations of Topher and what an amazing episode he was in.

The session didn't start out so great.  The NW windswell was making its presence known with a whimper.  The good thing about windswell waves is the consistency, they keep on coming!  Usually, they are weaker than proper groundswell waves and, as a result, tend to be poorer in quality.

About twenty minutes after we paddled out, I saw a nice left approach.  I pushed down the button on the Go Pro, but apparently, didn't do it for long enough.  I popped up, then quickly realized I had to wait out the flatness.  I managed to do so, pumped hard in the critical section of the wave, and felt the speed.  I levitated onto the following lip for my longest floater of the year, landed a little bit awkwardly, and kicked out into the flats, as the wave had fizzled.

I caught a right that I was bottom-turning hard on (maybe that could use an extra space), but hit a chop on the top of the wave, rendering me and my trajectory GUTLESS.

Mike had to bail so I did the bro thing and walked with him.

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