After yesterday's unfortunate waste of gas, checking from Wisconsin all the way to D, we weren't going to surf today. I spoke to Mike about a business idea last night and we happened to discuss surfing. One thing led to another and we met at 6:45 at D.
The waves were about twice the size I'd anticipated. The predicted south wind that had initially made me reticent was present and was affecting the shape of the waves. Still, with about head-high waves, we were good to go...!
The paddle-out was a nasty one. It would have been hard to pick a worse time during which to start the trek. The waves would not stop, and the wind had put a chop on the surface, making it difficult to maintain a steady trim. My left arm especially was screaming for me to take a break, but I wanted to snag one of these.
My first wave was a left that I caught on a steep corner. Unfortunately, I spent the entirety of the wave pumping, being teased that the wave would develop into at least one smashable section. The section never came and I was left with the surf equivalent of blue balls.
I caught a nice right in a great spot, pumped once and brought it around for a cutty. I put too much pressure on my front foot, however, and slid the fins out ever so slightly, scrubbing off most of my speed. Wave over.
A left came and it was a quick one. I made it around the first section and was in the pocket when I came down with a quick case of paralysis of analysis. I ended up doing nothing, unless you count kicking my board out and taking a lip to the side of the head something...
A couple of weeks ago, Mike said the next time I asked him to switch boards, he would do so. I begged Mike to switch boards with me, but he wasn't having it. He caught another wave and when he perched, I took my leash off, put it on my board, and asked again. He finally relented.
Here are a couple of Mike's waves on my board:
Listen for the good friend, hooting him on this one:
While Mike had my board, I was on his FireWire Dominator. This board has a lot less rocker than mine, but this means it goes that much harder. It's more buoyant, which makes you ride up higher in the wave (picture a finned skimboard), but disconnects you from the wave somewhat. I had a right I slashed and kept my speed to the inside.
Then I had a big left where I threw down a big bottom turn, but pussed out as the section in front threatened to fold over.
A big lull arrived. We sat through it, then decided to bail. The lull seemed to continue until we left.
In closing, Mike and I have this thing where I say he surfs better than me and he says I surf better than him. After viewing the evidence, I'd like to offer my apologies to Mike. You were right, bro.