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Thursday, May 31, 2012

5.31.2012 Another Go-Out at Pillbox! Shocking, I know...

After yesterday's session, you can't fault me for coming back for more.  The reports were saying the same thing, so theoretically, the surf would be about the same (save for the tide being one hour different), right?

Sort of....

As I left my place, I noticed a wind in the trees.  I kept going and noticed it wasn't as noticeable in the more coastal foliage.  Then, when I finally saw the water, I noticed it was OFFSHORE!  A good sign, but let's not get too amped.

Seaside looked smaller than yesterday.  Uh oh.  I parked and check Pillbox and it looked a shade smaller and more racy.  Hmmm...

I decided to check Del Mar just in case it had something going.  My four minute check at 20th showed two guys catching a wave each and struggling to stay on them.  OVER IT!

I went back to Pillbox and suited up.

Thankfully, this paddle-out was much mellower, thought I was on my glorious DHD.  That may have been the difference, as I was duckdiving like a madman.

My first wave was a left that took a couple of seconds to develop.  It did so, and I went for a floater, but didn't jump off in time and ate it.

My next wave was a right that was fast.  I caught it late, mini-pumped twice, then aborted as I just couldn't catch up.

Less than two minutes later, I caught another right I really had to paddle for and was so late on it, I didn't really catch it.  It was a weird sideways floater
situation that I just faded on.  It doesn't really count as a wave but was funny enough that I thought I'd include it.  It would have been a good one!

Five minutes passed until I caught my next wave, a fast left that ended up closing out.  I was semi-successful at high-jumping over the lip into the clear.

I'd been poring over my backside bottom turn footage and had decided to use a more vertical trajectory.  Unfortunately, I did so on the wrong section of my next wave and faded off the back.

A right came that seemed to have promise.  I caught it, but it flattened immediately.  I kicked out while looking over my shoulder to see what, if anything, the horizon held in store for me.

My right streak came to an end when I caught a left.  It allowed me one pump before making its close-out intentions known to me.  I pulled through the lip into the clear out the back.

Another left came and I pulled short on the initial smack, as it lacked the oomph necessary for a kook like me to make it. I weathered the flat spot and found a section.  Yet again, my body lurched backward upon impact but I managed to save it, though I did feel a tweak in my front knee. Here's the footage:

The wave faded a bit at the end, but I'm counting it!

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