This session happened earlier than the others. The winds were tearing the sea apart, but the surf zone was somewhat salvaged by (what I imagine to be) the offshore kelp beds. Jason hadn't surfed in over a year and I commiserated with him on his feeling of rustiness, having not surfed in about half a week.
This time, I was better equipped. I had my 5'6" Balestar fish, one I hadn't paddled out on in NINE months! The thing is short, but it's the widest board I've ever ridden at about 21". It's also thick as a mofo!
My first wave was a doozy. I managed to snag a corner and was thrown onto the flats. I managed to make up for the board's lack of rocker by keeping my weight more towards the tail. When I went to hit it, though, I snapped and my tail ended up behind the wave, along with the left half of my body. Bummer. Had I stayed over my board, I could've wafted...!
I caught a right and bottom turned too steeply. My fins washed out and I splayed comically onto my back.
I caught a party wave with Mark and cheered him on as he went for his half-pump wave caress signature move. YEAH MARK!
I was able to do a small foam climb, but there was no treasure at the end of the rainbow, so I kicked out over the now flat wave.
My last memorable wave was a left I caught and was able to snap and throw some spray. My speed went into it completely and I awkwardly flopped onto my back.
We went in to sample Mark's Memorial Day BBQ. And it was good.
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