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Thursday, May 31, 2012

5.26.2012 Yet another try at Avocado's with Mark PLUS Jason!

This session happened earlier than the others.  The winds were tearing the sea apart, but the surf zone was somewhat salvaged by (what I imagine to be) the offshore kelp beds.  Jason hadn't surfed in over a year and I commiserated with him on his feeling of rustiness, having not surfed in about half a week.

This time, I was better equipped.  I had my 5'6" Balestar fish, one I hadn't paddled out on in NINE months!  The thing is short, but it's the widest board I've ever ridden at about 21".  It's also thick as a mofo!

My first wave was a doozy.  I managed to snag a corner and was thrown onto the flats.  I managed to make up for the board's lack of rocker by keeping my weight more towards the tail.  When I went to hit it, though, I snapped and my tail ended up behind the wave, along with the left half of my body.  Bummer.  Had I stayed over my board, I could've wafted...!

I caught a right and bottom turned too steeply.  My fins washed out and I splayed comically onto my back.

I caught a party wave with Mark and cheered him on as he went for his half-pump wave caress signature move.  YEAH MARK!

I was able to do a small foam climb, but there was no treasure at the end of the rainbow, so I kicked out over the now flat wave.

My last memorable wave was a left I caught and was able to snap and throw some spray.  My speed went into it completely and I awkwardly flopped onto my back.

We went in to sample Mark's Memorial Day BBQ. And it was good.

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