All of Oceanside looked flat today. The high tide was drowning the swell. There were some shorebreak racers but they were looked so fat they weren't worth it. I saw a promising set at Buc's but then ...radio silence. I checked Harbor and just south of the south Jetty, I saw some peelers come through. Not wanting to make it three times in a row of driving without surfing, I was on it!
I got down there and saw some clean little 1-3' peelers with a couple of heads per peak, not too bad...! I saw an empty peak south of them and I paddled out. The water was extremely cold for the time of year, I would guess 62, maybe 63 degrees. Are we done with summer? I trunked it twice and froze both times!
I managed to get the rip to take me too far out for the third session in a row. I turned my head to look at the rest of the crowd and they were way inside of me. I paddled north and in and was too inside of a decent one.
I paddled out a bit more and dodged another set, three waves this time. I scampered back and forth until finally I was in position for a wave. I caught it and as I was popping to my feet, the section closed and raced off without me. I tried to pull back but the wave had other ideas. I jumped off my board towards the beach and took one spin in the cold cycle.
I paddled back out and waited about ten minutes for my next chance. I caught a wave and watched as it closed out in front of me. I jumped over the foam. I came up and something felt wrong. There was no tension on my leg. My leash rope had given out and I had the pleasure of swimming to get my board. I got to it and it wasn't dinged up by the rocks. If that had happened I would have questioned God's unconditional love for me.
I was disgusted with the cold, the gutless waves and my equipment issues. I packed it in and bailed. No more morning Oside for me until this morning high tide goes away :o(
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