Today marks two weeks since my last session. I had cruised for surf at least a half-dozen times in the interim, coming away disappointed each time. I drove to my shorebreak spot today and it wasn't doing much of anything. I checked Grandview and it was too fat. I stopped at C/D Street and the first thing I saw looked pathetic. I saw some heads out there so I parked the car to watch it.
Within a minute, I saw a guy drop in and get a small cover-up. I was out thar!
The water was accented by red tide. It reminded me of surfing El Salvador during the rainy season after a big rain. I paddled out and within a couple of minutes, I spotted a right heading my way. It looked really steep, so when a guy was paddling for the same wave five yards inside of me, I didn't yell him off. I got barreled, got hit by some water, and kept driving. I was in there a long time considering it was a closeout.
My next wave was a somewhat steep left. As soon as it popped up, it lined up. I got one super-pump in on the steepest part of the wave. The wave closed out, so I put all of my weight on my backside rail to get under it. While underwater, I kicked myself for not trying a foam climb...!
Less than a minute after I paddled back out, I caught a very similar wave, but with an open face. It was a little fat at the beginning, but I was able to pump more vertically than normal, sacrificing speed for distance covered. The oncoming section was there and I went pretty close to vertical and did what is probably my first legit layback snap that I pulled. NICE!
I saw a "big" (maybe shoulder-high) wave come and a guy caught it late. I hooted as he popped up to his feet and he pearled hard. He came up smiling at me, appreciative of the hoot!
About five minutes later, I saw one of the older guys charge hard for a chest-high right. He was extremely late, especially for such a big board. He got a well-deserved hoot (I won't say from whom) but didn't make it. I told him, "NICE!" and he said, smiling, "I had to go for it..."
I caught a right, pumped up and down and did the smoothest backside floater I've ever done. This isn't saying much as I rarely do these...
Upon paddling out, I looked south and watched as a guy got slabbed over. The red tide made it look dark in the barrel. I immediately lusted for a similar wave and speed-paddled down there.
After sitting there, alternating between floating and fighting the rip for about a half-hour, the wind came up stronger and I was over it.
The first half of the session was amazing, the second half was the opposite of amazing. A fun one for sure!
No comments:
Post a Comment