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Monday, September 12, 2011

9.12.2011 SouPa Gutlessness

This morning I trekked up to Oceanside once again, arriving at about 6:20. As I was pulling off the freeway, the famous Scuba flag was pointed due SW, OFFSHORE!!!

My froth was tempered only by my fear, soon to become realized: As is becoming habit for my treasured playground, it had morning sickness and the waves seemed bloated with water. It feels as though Oceanside has the flu and can't seem to recover. It's frustrating considering S swell season is starting its last gasp...

I scooted down to Carlsbad, checking Cherry and stopping for about five minutes at North Tamarack. I was tempted to go after watching a set develop, but it broke so blech that I bailed for "points" (get it?) farther south.

I checked the cliff spot just south of Palomar Airport Road and it looked a bit more promising. After about five minutes of trying to talk myself into going, I finally decided to just go as there were some set waves with a bit of steeps to them. The surface was very clean and the sun was out, which pushed me over the edge in terms of paddling out.

I scampered down the cliff, paddled out and caught a wave almost immediately. As I started leaning back to start a cutback, I had very little push from the wave and so aborted it and turned into my famous slash. I recovered and kicked out.

I caught a second wave and had the exact same experience! After kicking out I looked north and I saw a sick right barrel and thought, "Hmm..."

The next wave I caught was a right and steep. I got into my kneeboard stance and bounced down the face on my board. There was no barrel and I detached from my board, diving under the wave.

I caught a left did a sharp bottom turn and tried a snap. I threw some spray, but had no speed and did not recover. The waves got even less tantalizing and I was over it after about an hour.

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